Removing bearings from rear axle

[jeremiahnz]

Hey guys,

Went to see the mechanic the other day to see about getting the bearings pressed off the rear axle. He said just to cut them off, which is fine, I just need to check that I am going to be cutting all the right bits first.

In this pic I've marked what I assume some of the bits to be. Do I just cut through all of these? Or are there some parts I should be able to remove first and then just cut the main bearing? I understand I should cut the bearings almost right through then use a chisel for the last bit.

Bearing.jpg

Look forward to the responses

[DJZ]

Check what bits you've got in the new kit, I'm pretty sure what you've labelled as the outer bearing is actually a spacer. If there isn't one in the new kit don't cut it off.

[jeremiahnz]

Check what bits you've got in the new kit, I'm pretty sure what you've labelled as the outer bearing is actually a spacer. If there isn't one in the new kit don't cut it off.

Hmmm don't actually have the new kit yet....

Do you know if some of the bits (like what you said is the spacer) will come off without cutting or a press?

[DJZ]

Maybe if you heat it?

[Speed_Freak]

The way I do it is if you cut the big bearing off, then you can usually slide the backing plate over the sleeve and then press the sleeve off. This way you cant fuck up with grinding part of your axle away and the backing plate isnt in your way etc.. Its pretty hard to get them off without a chisel or a press.

[Bartman]

The "outer bearing" is actually a lock ring. That is what holds the bearing on. If you dont have the use of a press and or a puller you may as well just grind it and the bearing off. Usually you can buy a new lock ring when you get the new bearings.
Sometimes people will gas cut them off, but this can harm the axle.

Did the package reach you yet?

[jeremiahnz]

Thanks man,

So the lock ring is replaceable? I don't mind paying for the bits when I get the bearings, I just don't want to damage anything not replaceable. From what you say it sounds like it is fine to just cuts/smash them off.

Yes the package did reach me, just late yesterday! My wife said a package arrived for me and it was happy, I was stoked as! Thanks heaps! As I hadn't heard from you I was thinking you mustn't have been able to find the other bits, and figured it was one other thing I wouldn't get to over the break. I'm really keen to get the car on all fours asap which means finishing up the brakes.

Now I just need to get the bearings etc off, so I can test fit it all up.

[Bartman]

If you ring someone like BNT, or maybe even wilson brothers With the number off the bearing they might be able to sell you a kit.

Also something has occoured to me. I ran 1.5mm (I think) spacers between the axles, and the brake rotors. To try and space the calipers away from my shock absorbers. Since you wont have the spacers, (Or that problem) you may need to reduce the thickness of the washers between the caliper mounting plate, and the caliper in order to centralise the caliper over the disc. If you don't have access to a lathe, you could just about file/grind them down to the correct thickness.
I never took any pics of my set up, but I mounted the calipers with the handbrake cables facing rearward. They looped back aroundso that they faced the front. Then I welded a small plate to either side of the mounting hole where the facory handbrake cable used to poke through. And the ends of the cables were bolted to them. Then the wee bridle thing attached, and was connected to the factory handbrake pull cable.
If you remove both axles, and site the car on axles stands, you should be able to mock up the calipers on the ends of the axles tubes. BTW, they go on the back faces of the axle tube flanges. I don't know about your diff per say, (being as how it's such an early model) but those plates were a very snug fit on my diff.
I included all the cap screws and lock nuts that I could find. But sadly since I took it apart such a lon time ago, I couldn't find them all. I think you'll have enough to at least mock it all up though.

[jeremiahnz]

Hey man,

Yeah I'll try BNT and the likes when they reopen. I did find this here that suggests the bearing and seals are interchangeable with the 1200 bits
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Do ... _older.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
1968-1964 410
Seal ........................................................................ 1181[2]
B e a r i n g ............................................................RW115R[2]
1968-1964 411
Seal ........................................................................ 1181[2]
B e a r i n g ............................................................RW115R[2]
1973-1968 1200
Seal ........................................................................ 1181[2]
B e a r i n g ............................................................RW115R[2]
1973-1970 B110
Seal ........................................................................ 1181[2]
B e a r i n g ............................................................RW115R[2]

However that doesn't have a listing for the collar/lock ring. It is mostly that collar and the ring around that, that I am worried about as these do seem to run reasonably common bearings.

I may try speed_freaks suggestion of cutting the bearing race off, then slide the backing plate off and try to get the collar/lock ring pressed off (assuming then it may be reusable.

Anybody know if the collars/lock rings are reusable if pressed off?

[Speed_Freak]

Yea they should be fine, every wheel bearing kit ive got comes with a new locking ring anyway. Wilson brothers I think in CHCH are pretty cheap for bearing kits (thats where I get myn)