R30 motor decision

[torqued]

Hey all,
I have recently purchased a motorless R30 with the sole intent of using it for track racing.
Now i dont have a clue regarding the different classes out there or what I am to be doing.

After reading http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3421" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Im wondering what motor im best to be slotting into its glory hole.
Im hearing different opinions as to whats best suit each of people with different racing back grounds
Heres my short list so far

FJ20et
VQ30det
L28Et

The main plan is to just get out there and soak up as much track time as poss, but I want to have a good starting base for future devolpment.

Any infomation is greatly appreciated.

[Godzilladat]

RB30e = bang for buck

In saying that, racing class will no doubt dictate your final decision.

[Bartman]

Probably FJ!
Finish your 510 1st though!

[datsunboy]

Don't worry bart. His wife made that a condition for buying the r30 in the first place

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

[nzeder]

This all does depend on what racing you want to do. Up here in Auckland running a Jap car means most classic race classes are out as the are run by those that like British MG's, Escorts, BMC's etc and only accept zed on invite only. So that leaves the classic Jap series which is mostly 88,89,90 cars as the rules are a rolling 20 year thing so a 92 car can compete this year....is that classic? Might be to a 20 year old but not a 40 year old like me.

So that leave just club stuff and just about anything goes at that level as they are Schedule A cars.

So what is the track seen like in your part of the woods? If you read the motorsport regulations and if you are thinking classic then there is only one engine in your list that fits the bill.

FJ20ET

I say that as that engine was a factory fitment from your list (unless a l28et was fitted in a market somewhere in the world)

I have heard FJ20's can be very $$ to build but the have lots of HP potential.

Whatever you do remember with cc calculations turbo is cc x factor to get cc for the class you run in.

One more thing get hold of a R31 cross member and rack to replace the steering box the rack will be better for track work.

There is one more option google Tommy Kaira M30 you just have to do the R30 to R31 conversion (I am lead to believe a number of R30 race cars were upgrade to R31 spec and the parts were almost a kit for the teams from Nissan back in the day)

[DJZ]

The guy you bought that R30 off must be a pretty awesome dude.

There is only one real option:

[torqued]

haha modest kind of guy.

I was throwing around the idea of a LD28 also. you know with todays gas prices its a no brainer.

thanks heaps nzder. something to think about

[Bartman]

I'm with Daniel!!!!!!
I've recently learned a bit about diesels. Since lean doesn't kell them, buy one, and chuck on an eaton M90. Gear it up so it pumps 14psi 24/7, and do mad skids at will!

[gingofthesouth]

I am extremely biased but I approve the use of FJ20ET haha

Really its down to what class and rules though.

[classicdat]

RB30e = bang for buck

In saying that, racing class will no doubt dictate your final decision.

Sound thinking there, if you only want to get out there and get some laps in I think this would be the way to go. Cheap, reliable, and fit in the classes at Ruapuna speed events, which run monthly all year round.
Classes are; 0-1300, 1301-1600, 1601-2000, 2000-3000, 3000 and over. Turbo Factor is X 1.7 I think, so 2L FJ20 = 3.4L so running with the Big Boys, and 4WDs
Jason Smith from old school owns the 3L class at present in his S5 RX7, non turbo.
I won the class 3 seasons ago in my Z running a pretty std L28 so with an RB you should be quite competitive. With an RB 30 you could get in some miles and get the handling and stopping sorted, before going for the big up-grade. Engine only has to appear original for classics, eg, L24 to L28 conversion, depending on what Cert of Description (COD)you want, as Mike points out the fact that you are Japanese and not a Z will mean you can run with a 'B' COD in anything that you will be 'allowed' to enter. So in time you could build an L28ET to take the place of the RB not upsetting the balance too much and run in classics.