New Zealand Datsun Club

My bad. I can't keep up with all the model names. I know brocky's one is a C2something, and yours was the same model number, but without the "2".

dont you mean you wish it was a KC30?
I want one of them sooooo bad!

someone buy one....and I'll straight swap you for my KP510

dirtyleppa wrote:just the standard t3 on my L20et ginge. to replace the noisey one on there.

i wish it was a c30 bart, but alas, its only a c31

c30

c31

Both those are sweet!

I need a T3 with a .63 ar housing

ill see what the one on my motor is, and ill let you know

bump you bastards

will even consider a damn 4 speed. please, help a brown brother out

gingofthesouth wrote:

dirtyleppa wrote:just the standard t3 on my L20et ginge. to replace the noisey one on there.

i wish it was a c30 bart, but alas, its only a c31

c30

c31

Both those are sweet!

I need a T3 with a .63 ar housing

I have a 0.63 AR housing you can have, the Waste gate port has some cracking(most do ) but it should work just fine

I am Infact after a 0.48 housing myself if you have one you wish to offload

dirtyleppa wrote:bump you bastards

will even consider a damn 4 speed. please, help a brown brother out

Dylan

What about swapping an FS5w71C or Nissan Sr gearbox onto the back of the L series , might be much easier to find ?

here is the guide from Z-CLub NZ

Quote:
SR gearbox onto L tutorial

Parts Required:
L6 gearbox
SR gearbox
New L6 gearbox countershaft bearing (optional) Part Numbers: 63/22C3, TMB3/22C3, or 22BC0655X. Call CBC (http://www.conbear.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).

Specific Tools Required:
16mm drill bit
Dremel with a small grinding disc.
Optionals: 16mm H7 reamer bit, 41/64ths drill bit.

Step 1:

Remove L6 bell housing from gearbox. To do this unbolt the bolts halfway on the gearbox that go from the extension housing through the sandwich plate to the bell. Also unbolt the cover on the inside of the bell that the clutch arm sits on.
You will then need to remove the circlip on the front of the input shaft bearing. Use circlip pliers and a screw driver.

Put everything aside as you will be using some of it again.

Remove SR bell housing from gearbox following the same procedure.

Step 2:

Remove the SR countershaft front bearing using two chisel point screw drivers to get it started, then lever it off against the bearing (as opposed to the gear) so you don't ruin the gear.

Step 3:

Reinstall the 240Z countershaft bearing. Either reusing the one from the L6 box, or a new one. Gently knock it down with a rubber mallet.

Step 4:

Drill out the 1st/2nd selector shaft hole in the L6 bell housing using a 15 or 16mm drill bit then a 16mm H7 reaming bit. Or you could try a 41/64ths bit if you happen to have one lying around (thats what I ended up using).

Step 5:

Get a dremel/rotary tool and grind away 1mm or so from the countershaft casting on the inside side of the gearbox bell housing. This is necessary as the casting has been modified between the 71B and the 71C to accommodate the wider gears assumedly.

You also need to put a chamfer on the edge which is square standard. I made this chamfer between 1 and 2mm big.

Step 6:

Trial fit this bell onto the SR gearbox being careful of the oil supply cup on the upper passenger side just above the 1st mainshaft gear. Rotate the input shaft by hand. If it is very difficult to turn you need to die grind some more off the countershaft casting in the bell.

Step 7:

When you can bolt the gearbox up and rotate the input shaft easily you are just about ready to bolt the box together.
You could possibly have trouble with the 1st/2nd input shaft not wanting to go into the bell housing because this metal doesn't have any oil sitting on it, I suggest you squirt a dab in there. If the selector doesn't go in it can slide backwards (engaging 1st gear).

If this happens and the gearbox shifter is not in the 1st position you won't be able to select any gears (except 5th/Rev) from then on. If putting some oil in the 1st/2nd selector shaft hole doesn't solve the problem, you can put the gearbox in the 1st position before you bolt it up and it will be fine. Worked for me atleast.

Step 8:

Reassemble the gearbox as you took it apart and you're ready to go. Don't forget the circlip on the mainshaft bearing. Use the L6 front gearbox cover, clutch arm and throw out bearing carrier.


Additional issues:

The SR gearbox has the bolts for the gearbox x-member around 35mm further back than the 71B box. Depends on your car what you do to fix this. Here is what I did, tad dogey, but it works.
This gearbox is also 50mm longer at the end of the tailshaft. I took a tailshaft that was used on a 71B box and had it shortened by 50mm and it fits just fine (after you remove the cover for the front spline as it doesn't fit into the gearbox).

Big thanks to Mad1600 for helping me and motivation.

Pics to follow.

sounds like a good plan, but i think i will stick with an L series box. if i had an L series bell housing lying around, i might look at it, but as im keeping the engine standard, there wont really be a need to go to an sr box. and i couldnt really justify the extra expense of the sr box. will be better just to wait till i find an L box.

cheers for the info though james

so the L6 gearbox bellhousing bolt pattern lines up with an SR gearbox centre plate????

Yes, I've done two of them now, one L series bellhousing on to a GTS-t C box and then one RB bellhousing on to an L series box for my R30. It's a pretty easy swap either way.

If you were to do it Dylan you'd need to shorted the driveshaft and move the mount cause the Laurel should have a stubby box? I sold the box that came off the motor I sold you. I've still got the clutch and computer for it at home.