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Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:52 pm
by 2 doors
I stripped mine by good old elbow grease and turgo-strip, ( RJ patterson panelbeating supplies) I personally feel that an angle grinder held for to long in one place regadless of the attatchment ,is capable of heating a panel till it warps, paint stripper and Heavy duty gloves, a good mask or well ventillated area for the win, wipe down vigourously with wax and grease remover or thinners afterwards, and then etch prime within 24 hrs or be prepared for surface rust.
Having said that im a tight bastard, and if id had the money I would have had it soda blasted.

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:26 pm
by luke
ok.

update.

car started and drove to the supermarket, apon return i calmly turned it off, realised i had to re-locate, and something bad happened. something starter motor related im guessing.

so apon this discovery.......

i built up momentum.
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more pics eventually.

i now just require someone to help/teach me how to dismantle running gear... or to see if i need to get that drastic in the first place.

sing out if your free this week for a look

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:55 pm
by mush
Hi Luke

There are many ways to remove the paint and rust off your coupe, as others have mentioned all with thier own advantages and disadvantages.
Some things to consider-
Soda blasting cleans panels very well and wont distoret the steel, but is exspensive and doesnt remove deep pitted rust anyway. Plus as i think Nick already mentioned they clean it down with water which isnt ideal on a bare metal shell.
Sand blasting is reasonably cost effective and will remove all rust and paint easily, Just be carefull who you take it to and how much they do to it.
I think someone also mentioned you should never sandblast any flat surface panels, roofs, bonnets and door skins etc as it heats and stretches the steel.
Paint stripper works great, although depending on how many layers of paint are on the car it can take a while because it generally only removes one layer at a time. Rough up the surface first so the stripper can bite into the paint and work better to lift it. If you use stripper, mask up any seams so it doesnt seek into them causing problems later down the track.
I would strip the large flat panels by hand with an angle grinder and a 3M purple strip it wheel (or something similar) and then get the remainder sand blasted. As long as you dont concentrate on one area and keep moving along a whole panel you wont cause any damage to the panels.
Just remember, as a general guide- if the panels to hot to hold your hand on then your likely to start damaging it.

Hope this helps :)

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:00 pm
by mush
Oh, i forgot to mention. If you have any panels in bare metal and your not priming them straight away just cover them with Kephos (a thin clear coating designed to promote paint adhesion) otherwise known as Paint grip. It will stop your panels from rusting and wont affect your primer or paint process. You dont even need to remove it.

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:08 pm
by unlimitedpower
I got my 140j sand blasted and soda blasted. It was lots cheaper than getting the whole thing done in soda.

Points to note
A: you will for ever be trying to get the dam sand and soda out of it. And i mean for ever months later its still coming out of my car. I have no idea where its hiding anymore its like my car has leaned to make it.
B: remove your door hinges you will be amazed how much soda gets between them and the frame.
C: Make sure you wash the car down real good after the soda blasting it puts a layer on the metal and paint won't stick to it. This is also helpfull if you get your car blasted then its a few weeks before you can get to paneling it as the layer it puts on stops it corroding.
D: Once you have washed the car down. Go over the hole thing with the orbital sander and scuff it right back. Its easy with no paint on there. This gets the rest of the layer off the steel then you can etch prime it.

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 4:00 pm
by DAT620
did the chick the banana and the car come as a package deal?

the amount of the body you want to spray will tell you if you need to remove the running gear. are you spraying the engine bay and the underneath of the body?

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 5:06 pm
by luke
you bet they did!!

want to do engine bay definitley, but would it be worth spraying under side of car? it will be a driven car not a hot rod show pony.....

or do you mean seal stuff on under carraige?

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:59 pm
by kartboy
maybe we could include your garage in Saturdays garage day and a few of us could give you our opinions then??

Let us know if you are keen.

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:35 am
by luke
kartboy wrote:maybe we could include your garage in Saturdays garage day and a few of us could give you our opinions then??

Let us know if you are keen.

im very keen to attend this garage day thing, and yea come peek at my car too, small garage and all but its all for looking anyway haha

Re: Stripping out coupe/Rust repairs/Welding

Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:50 pm
by 240znz
My 240z was sandblasted and keyphosed within 24 hours. Rust was cut out first which opened up the shell for better access for the blasting process. The car was on a rostisorie so was maybe easier to get the sand out of but it took a concerted effort. All internal cavities were subjected to the fisholine treatment and that stuff gets everywhere and even the non-smelly stuff stinks.