New Zealand Datsun Club

keeping in mind rb30e are getting up in price as the drift boys snap them up.

Do you think they will still be perfered over a vq30de / vg30(d)e etc.

I suspect after market support for them would be better

I think the main thing is the cars they are going into and the ease of fitment, if you want to put an RB into an S13/14/15 it's a simple as changing the cross member, trying to put a VQ30DET into an S13 is a completely different story, trust me, I know.

The VQ's are beautiful motors though and the turbo ones are easy to get power out of and remember they haven't made an RB engine since what, about 2002?

From what ive read i cant see getting a VQ in there too much of a drama. Few people are fitting them into S12 and R31s. Havnt seena r30 one yet

DJZ wrote:The VQ's are beautiful motors though and the turbo ones are easy to get power out of and remember they haven't made an RB engine since what, about 2002?

Totally agree.
I remember a while back a guy I met fitted one into a s14 with great results.

Atm from what ClassicDat said im thinking something 3L NA with room to move.
Just want that perfect starting point

My mate just sold an N/A rear drive VQ30DE for $100 hah, I should have stashed it away when I was offered it.

How about an L28/L31 Stroker?
They are cheap to build, can get good power vs reliability and will be good enough to go round and round about the middle of the field I would think. All while learning to drive and getting it to stop and handle. By the time you have out grown that you would probably have a better idea of what class you want to race in.
I reckon get it done cheap and reliably (and more importantly quickly) and get out racing. Nothing substitutes seat time. I made that mistake, I should have been racing years ago if I but I pine to hard

nick_m wrote:How about an L28/L31 Stroker?
They are cheap to build, can get good power vs reliability and will be good enough to go round and round about the middle of the field I would think. All while learning to drive and getting it to stop and handle. By the time you have out grown that you would probably have a better idea of what class you want to race in.
I reckon get it done cheap and reliably (and more importantly quickly) and get out racing. Nothing substitutes seat time. I made that mistake, I should have been racing years ago if I but I pine to hard

Have you built a L31? To do it correctly is not cheap. Ie don't use a truck piston (reads KA24 piston, they are heavy and the rings are to large) you want 45mm triples that is up to 2k + by the time you get them and jets/chokes to suit your larger engine. Then for good power budget 5k for head development, add more $$ for new rods, forged piston, rings and bearing, block prep, arp studs etc then exhaust to match to get the most out of all this work and don't forget a good fuel pump/fuel system.

Do it right and you have 270-280 rwhp...do it cheap and you might be lucky and get 190-200 rwhp

Aaron(datto horder ) is building one at the moment for the H331/C110/C10

Arh Cheers Chris.
I need to talk to him regarding a different matter. So two stones one bird, or something like that

nzeder wrote:

nick_m wrote:How about an L28/L31 Stroker?
They are cheap to build, can get good power vs reliability and will be good enough to go round and round about the middle of the field I would think. All while learning to drive and getting it to stop and handle. By the time you have out grown that you would probably have a better idea of what class you want to race in.
I reckon get it done cheap and reliably (and more importantly quickly) and get out racing. Nothing substitutes seat time. I made that mistake, I should have been racing years ago if I but I pine to hard

Have you built a L31? To do it correctly is not cheap. Ie don't use a truck piston (reads KA24 piston, they are heavy and the rings are to large) you want 45mm triples that is up to 2k + by the time you get them and jets/chokes to suit your larger engine. Then for good power budget 5k for head development, add more $$ for new rods, forged piston, rings and bearing, block prep, arp studs etc then exhaust to match to get the most out of all this work and don't forget a good fuel pump/fuel system.

Do it right and you have 270-280 rwhp...do it cheap and you might be lucky and get 190-200 rwhp

I think you missed the point of my post entirely. You can definitely build a reliable 'race' motor for cheap, it wouldnt be a class winner, it might only make 200whp but who cares, it would be cheap and quick to build, reasonably quick, reliable and he would be out racing. Then he can learn to race and setup the car and add a gruntier/different engine after that. Agreed, L31 probably isnt really a cost effective option (I just really like them) but refer back to Vaughns post about racing his zed with a near std L28, thats what Im getting at. Just get a moderate motor in there and race!
Also you probably didnt realise but Adam used to be a mechanic so he is well capable of buttoning a motor toegther which would save on costs

For the difference in power vs. cost you'd be better of just sticking with an L28 + cam + triple carbs, maybe some flat top pistons if you can find a set around.