Page 2 of 25
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:08 am
by beaver
Yep my thoughts exactly. Will get radiator flushed properly and tested/cleaned etc and pull water pump for inspection/cleaing/replacement.
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:07 pm
by b110sss
In my experience I wouldnt discount replacing the head gasket after giving the head a light skim and also the heater core may well be blocked...
It all becomes a bit of a downhill spiral after they get hot and boil.
By the way if you do take the head off don't forget to retorque it after you have done a few hours and make sure that it is stone cold when you do.
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:37 pm
by beaver
Il do the rad and waterpump first and see how that gets on and go from there. Cheers
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:51 pm
by beaver
pulled out radiator ready to take to shop tomorrow, bit of damage to the front fins but will see what they say. took of water pump, looks fine but have a new one on it way anyway (thanks to KK). hopefully the radiator is the culprit so will reassmeble once thats been fixed with new waterpump and thermostat. fingers crossed thatl sort it out.
cleaned the inside out today, needs a good vacuum, dust err where. minor wear on drivers seat, carpets quite worn in places and the boot gas struts are buggered. apart from that its pretty dam tidy if I do say so myself. very impressed. will get new carpets at some stage in the not too distant future, will make it look brand spankers.
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:05 pm
by b110sss
Might pay to get the radiator shop to do a leakage test once you get everything back together to see if there is an issue with the head gasket.
From memory what happens when you boil it is a chemical reaction that has the net effect of dislodging 'slag' from the inner linings of the block and if this happens then the whole process starts again.. ie another blocked radiator
So you can end up chasing your tail thinking that you have fixed one part of the problem when in actual fact you are back to square one again.
Hope this all makes sense.
Cheers
Dave
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:07 pm
by beaver
Thanks for the heads up. ONce the car can drive for more than 5mins ill take in in to get tested for sure
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:19 pm
by Bartman
JMHO, I wouldn't fuck around with that radiator. Given how screwed the fins at the front were, I'd say a rad shop will tell that it's fucked. Plus it's awful small. Me, I'd try find a sunny or Vannette radiator, and get that recored.
If you upspec the motor, or repower it with an A15, or 15, that rad will be too small.
I'd give the motor the dishwasher tab treatment too. If you get a new rad, you wont want go only knows what detritus migrating from the block, to the new rad.
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:40 pm
by beaver
yeh there is some yummy goodnes still about in the motor.
will see what they radiator guys say anyway, no harm done if they say its buggered.
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:46 am
by beaver
Well have picked up new waterpump and radiator should be done today (getting recored).
heres a picture from the side of the road where I spent 3.5 hours on Sunday......
Radiator should be done today so will then be able to stick it all back together and fingers crossed it keeps temp at bay. Pulled of the carb last night as it is gunky as hell and leaks petrol. Brought a rekit off the tard for it so will rebuilt that before sticking it back on. (or put it back on once radiator is done and then not bother to rebuild it lol)
Bearing in mind Ive only driven the thing for maybe 20mins tops Im getting pretty keen fro a proper hoon.....
Re: Beaver's 120y coupe
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:52 pm
by beaver