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Re: 1200 coupe lowering

Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:08 pm
by dirtyleppa
best bet would be coilovers luke. less messing around with guess work in the long run. that way you can get your height spot on and you wont have to worry about your spring perches fouling on the wheels. ill take photos of my setup this weekend so you can see what it looks like. ill measure my sill to ground height as well as wheel to guard clearance

Re: 1200 coupe lowering

Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:29 pm
by Kitch
They are cut springs, so have you not just been conservative with your cutting? so you just need to cut more off to get the ride height you want (as long as you retain some operable travel!) ie why dont you just whip another half coil out of each side???...

When I did the 120Y, I jacked up the wheel & strut assembly (with no spring) until there was 15mm clearance to underside of guard (ie my desired ride height) and measured from bearing surface of top hat down to bearing part of spring perch - this was my target 'compressed' height. I estimated the spring rate & corner weight of the car, and worked out that the spring would grow about 65-70mm (from memory) if it was 'free'. so I started with my desired compressed height +70mm, I cut spring, assembled strut and fitted up and dropped car to the deck , loaded under its own weight (and pushed down on guard etc to settle it) and inspected. I started conservatively, but over the course of an hour the strut had been in and out 3-4 times to get the height I wanted. Once i got that I cut other side to same length, and I then had to put longer insert spacers in the struts to keep the spring active. The 120Y had the added advantage of getting the 310 top hat upgrade, which lowered the car 30mm off the bat whilst not sacrificing any shock travel. The last cut I made was only about 40mm of spring, or maybe 1/8 of a coil, but that got the last 5-6mm I was looking for. The first drive round the block settled it down another 3-4mm too.

P.S. - Why did I sell that 120Y - it was pretty cool... :roll:
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Re: 1200 coupe lowering

Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:18 am
by luke
i could keep cutting but will it not reduce my spring travel? i have progressive springs in it atm and 2 sets of avenger rear springs sitting there to be used if need be...... but o.d. of the avenger springs is like 110mm and standard is like 100mm.......................

Re: 1200 coupe lowering

Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:37 pm
by Kitch
avenger spings have been used in 110s and 210s for years, so unless its really hot when you measured them, they shoud fit!

did you compress stock springs? avenger springs are like twice as stiff (or morw). if you sack it on compressed stock springs, wont they still be soft and only like 120 pounds/inch and scrape guards around corners and bottom out?

Re: 1200 coupe lowering

Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:34 pm
by brocky41
Kitch wrote:avenger spings have been used in 110s and 210s for years, so unless its really hot when you measured them, they shoud fit!

did you compress stock springs? avenger springs are like twice as stiff (or morw). if you sack it on compressed stock springs, wont they still be soft and only like 120 pounds/inch and scrape guards around corners and bottom out?
Yes they will - possibly be even lower springrate - they will do the whole bottoming out thing thou.

Re: 1200 coupe lowering

Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:53 pm
by luke
I got Bellamy and east to cut and reshape the set the car came with. Might try to cut some avenger springs tomorrow ..... they really don't fit nice on any of the struts I have (6). Or is it just the first part that stays actually captive in the strut cap etc?

Re: 1200 coupe lowering

Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:00 pm
by classicdat
I had to 'Flare' my perch with a crescent, just a little, you are right they are a tad big, but only 5mm all round so easy to get in there.