New Zealand Datsun Club

Was listed on a couple of Facebook trading groups but before that, it was posted on a mates page so had knowledge of it beforehand luckily. So was pretty darn quick getting onto it.

Has 2 tool accesses so I assume its the "series 2" 240z. Yeah sure man, sounds like a plan

As I found out, the series 1/2/3 is really a term given to the HLS30 variants by US Datsun dealers.

JDM and export S30's weren't so clear cut. From what I know, Nissan used up parts in the bins for these hence why you have the hand throttle, but no Swiss cheese, no vented hatch but vented B pillar.

The US guys would pay you good coin for that hand throttle....in fact silly money. But keep it and don't hook it up as it doesn't release when the brake pedal is pressed.

Haha well that is nice but hardly surprising to be honest as it was really designed for the 'Murica market.

The engine is being sold, as much as it pains me. . . I'm planning on putting in a High comp l28 with ITBS

Keep the engine if it is the original matching numbers L24. You never know, if you keep it one day you may want to put it back to original.

Tempting to just keep it in there but I wants moar powerrr

Edited the original post with more info and better photos since my phone is now fixed

So done a bit more work over the last couple of days. Dropped the fuel tank out to see how bad it was inside. No wonder it difficult to start/idle, caked lead and extremely stale fuel. So gave the tank a decent clean and put put new fuel in, connected a electric fuel pump to run new fuel through the lines before hooking them up to the carbs. New spark plugs.....Runs so much better now, starts first pop with the choke.

Also replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder and put new fluid in and took it for a drive and damn does it drive extremely well, considering how long it sat for.

Looking for a L28 and a new hatch at the moment, get it looking as tidy as possible since we are moving soon and well need to drive it to the new house.

Yep, it will need quite a lot of rust removal. Those doglegs are shot and there are three layers of panels at that location so I suspect that it is ugly in there. There is a sill on TM at the moment which you may need.

You should check the hoses under the dash that allow water collected under the cowl to exit. These hoses are found inside the cabin just behind the foot well fresh air vents. They sometimes perish. It's a bad design in my book and the passenger one in mine caused a stupid amount of damage. You'll see where they exit the cabin when you remove the guards. It will be well worth your while to make new ones and extend them down inside the guard cavity and exit between the guard and body. You'll know what I mean when you see it. A bit hard to explain.

You should also consider removing the door scuff plates to see how much steel is left in those rails. Have a good poke around with a screwdriver where the TC rod mounts to the chassis rails and also there is a gusset inside the wheel arches that also rust from the inside out.

Have had a bit of a look into the rails from the inside and looks pretty good. Really want to strip it down and have a good look but can't do it until we have moved

So after alot of thought and input from people, I have decided to use the original engine and convert it to fuel injection and turbo. Why some may ask? why not just go L28? Because its different and I really want to keep the original engine, I could keep it stored away but would annoy me that it wouldn't be getting used.

I started fabricating a custom plenum for a L28 a few months back so will be using that with a rb20/25 throttle body. I got a Holset HX35 7 blade 54/77mm Compressor wheel and 12cm2 turbine housing, roughly .81AR. Will have to get the head modified to suit injectors so at the same time will get some porting done to it. Anyhow these plans are a wee while off as alot of rust work has to be done.

Fitted front airdam on it that I kept off the previous 240z I owned, does not look right without a bumper.



Strippedthe rear end to inspect how bad the rust is. Rusted out in the typical areas, not as bad as I thought it would be.







No snapped or hard to get out bolts yet so thats a bonus!