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Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 8:22 pm
by gman
Nick this is one of my old cars it had a 5 speed in it.
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:20 pm
by grant76
Short wheel base utes had a one piece, my old ute was like this so they are around in nz
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 11:15 pm
by brocky41
If your looking at fuel pump brands, my Airtek low pressure / lift pump was quite quiet in the 120Y - which would be good for carbs, i know the old piston type ones are noisy aswell as the old square facet ones.
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:50 am
by Nick
I had a good look at the driveshaft last night and I does look like someone has welded a new flange on. It's been mig welded and has a pretty porous section which I don't think would be there from factory.
I also noticed that the gearbox mounts are much further back in the tunnel. With the 4 speed in it a large adapter plate was required. Even with the 5 speed I will need to adapt the mounts forwards not backwards like you usually would with a manual car.
Thanks for the advice Brock, I've got one of those square facet pumps I believe. Before I get a replacement pump I want to get a fuel reg. I've been looking at something like this
https://touch.trademe.co.nz/motors/list ... /900458652" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
with a oil filled 0-15 psi gauge - which are surprisingly expensive.
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:05 pm
by Kitch
I have an H165 shortened drive shaft, all balanced up & painted. didnt end up using it as I stuffed up my measurements.
Once you get your 5 speed in, check the distance and give me a yell, as my one might be just what you need
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 10:48 pm
by Nick
Thanks for the offer Kitch! Ill let you know.
So I managed to get the 4 speed out of this and the 5 speed from my sunny. The 4 speed and the tunnel of the coupe was absolutely covered in oil and dirt.
IMG_0857.JPG
IMG_0847.JPG
With a bit of scrubbing and degreaser it came up much better
IMG_0851.JPG
I quickly mounted the 5 speed to work out a good way to make a gearbox member. After reading through Kitch's build thread I decided I would use a similar mount to his, like this.
Untitled.jpg
However I plan to go on to the rear mount on the gearbox closer to the tailshaft. I should almost be able to use a piece of flat plate to get the right height. I just need to get my hands on a B310 gearbox mount, so if anyone has one let me know.
Here's a picture of the 5 speed mounted, it looks like the reverse switch should have enough clearance thanks to the bigger automatic tunnel.
IMG_0881.JPG
I'm still unsure about driveshaft lengths as Im not happy with the way the engine is sitting. Right now the rear heater elbow that goes in the back of the head is hitting the firewall. It seems like the engine is mounted correctly, but something isn't right. What is the usual clearance here?
IMG_0891.JPG
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 7:18 am
by b110sss
Thats quite normal. You need to lift the gearbox up higher into the trans tunnel and the problem will go away.
Cheers
Dave
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 4:17 pm
by gman
Daves right and if you have the gearbox to low it will chatter to.
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:30 pm
by Nick
So I had round two of trying to fit the gearbox tonight. This time I put the release bearing and clutch fork in to check everything had clearance. I found that the clutch fork was hitting the gearbox tunnel when the engine was a reasonable distance from the firewall. On the other had when the clutch fork was not hitting the tunnel the engine was hitting the firewall.
Not really to sure what the issue is.... Possibly automatics had a shower gearbox tunnel opening. I would like to avoid having to bash the tunnel to get enough clearance
Re: Nick's 1200 Coupe
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:13 am
by beaver
Just my 2 cents.....
I would be weary of using the back mount location on the gearbox, it is actually for an exhaust hanger, not a gbox mount. It will put higher stress on the gearbox (compared to the normal mount location) as the whole engine and gbox combo will want to fold in half (as the gbox is held from the back, not towards the middle as intended).
In my 120y I made up a u shapped cross member to get around this problem, ill dig up a pic. But basically I used two bits of angle iron and a bit of box section welded in between.
This is mine. Obviusly a bit differnt to a 1200 but simlar principle. A b310 mount bolts to the cross piece (hence the large holes on one side to access the nuts), and the two sets of hole son each of the 'outriggers' grab two sets of holes on the tunnel.
And yes, its not meant to be symmetrical, the holes in the floor are not unform on both sides of the tunnel.