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Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:41 pm
by broke
Ouch, Brocky's one was just like that. I didn't have a MIG welder to try attaching anything to them with, but I would suggest that you do that instead of doing anything else. I took Brock's one to work and tried everything, soaked them in WD-40 for days beforehand, tried heating with oxy-acetylene set, drilling and tapping using all sorts of easy-outs (snapped and rounded them all) and they still wouldn't budge.
One of the guys I work with has had a few with the same issue, he said that it's possible to get them spark-eroded without damaging the cast iron manifold and that he wouldn't even bother doing it any other way. In the end Brock took his to Royce Clive Engineering to get them drilled out to 10mm. Unfortunately this doesn't leave much room between the edge of the manifold face and the stud hole, and one of them developed a crack there. So be aware.
What I suggest is that if you can't weld them out then get a pro to remove them. If you have to go up a size then 3/8" would be a good size to go to. Make sure you get both manifold sealing faces machined nice and flat too, L series engines do seem to be prone to manifold leakage.
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:58 pm
by D1RTY6
broke wrote:Ouch, Brocky's one was just like that. I didn't have a MIG welder to try attaching anything to them with, but I would suggest that you do that instead of doing anything else. I took Brock's one to work and tried everything, soaked them in WD-40 for days beforehand, tried heating with oxy-acetylene set, drilling and tapping using all sorts of easy-outs (snapped and rounded them all) and they still wouldn't budge.
One of the guys I work with has had a few with the same issue, he said that it's possible to get them spark-eroded without damaging the cast iron manifold and that he wouldn't even bother doing it any other way. In the end Brock took his to Royce Clive Engineering to get them drilled out to 10mm. Unfortunately this doesn't leave much room between the edge of the manifold face and the stud hole, and one of them developed a crack there. So be aware.
What I suggest is that if you can't weld them out then get a pro to remove them. If you have to go up a size then 3/8" would be a good size to go to. Make sure you get both manifold sealing faces machined nice and flat too, L series engines do seem to be prone to manifold leakage.
All im hearing from this is "get headers/extractors made up Nathan"
p.s Cheers for all the information!
you end up selling that 330?
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 9:21 pm
by broke
D1RTY6 wrote:
All im hearing from this is "get headers/extractors made up Nathan"
p.s Cheers for all the information!
you end up selling that 330?
If you manage to find some to suit then let me know how they fit, if they're as bad as most 4 cyl L series ones then I'll stick with the cast manifold thanks. I've acquired a nice stash of tidy panels so I'm going to fix the Brougham and decide whether I want to sell it or not after that.
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:21 am
by kicker
Had the same problem last week with my 330, it was in the shop having part of the exhaust replaced so they dealt with it, cost me an extra $150 though! Ah well I'm glad I didn't have to bother with it, I hate removing snapped bolts and studs.
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 9:40 pm
by D1RTY6
kicker wrote:Had the same problem last week with my 330, it was in the shop having part of the exhaust replaced so they dealt with it, cost me an extra $150 though! Ah well I'm glad I didn't have to bother with it, I hate removing snapped bolts and studs.
Got this sorted today, Took it to Uniweld on Main north road they pulled them out and replaced them for $54 which is not to bad
hopefully get some more progress on it in the following weeks
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:29 pm
by D1RTY6
Drama after Drama with this thing!
Started chucking on all the bolt on bits and pieces in the engine bay over the long weekend. Now the engine has decided it doesn't want to turn over ( cant get the crank to move)
any ideas?
I'm starting to think it might be just easier to start from scratch and put a RB20de in it.
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:43 pm
by DJZ
What have you done to it exactly? Is it out of gear?
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:00 pm
by D1RTY6
DJZ wrote:What have you done to it exactly? Is it out of gear?
Ha, yes it is out of gear.
Since last turning it over (it was some time ago, i should have tried before mounting it i know) i have bolted it up to the gear box (new clutch) and put it in the engine bay.
only thing i can think of is either its gotten seized somehow or there is something going wrong in the connection with the clutch/gearbox.
Nathan
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:12 pm
by DJZ
Clutch plate in backwards maybe? Is there play in the clutch fork? Did you have any trouble getting the engine and gearbox together?
Re: D1RTY6 's 1978 C331 Gloria SGL-E
Posted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:57 pm
by D1RTY6
DJZ wrote:Clutch plate in backwards maybe? Is there play in the clutch fork? Did you have any trouble getting the engine and gearbox together?
Wasnt to much trouble getting it on and defiantly don't have the clutch plate in backwards.