New Zealand Datsun Club

That looks really cool!
But surely the gasses traveling so far to the turbo would allow them more time to cool down?

If you wanted to send me a photocopy of the flange and some measurements

I Could have a go at doing a CAD model for you

Bartman wrote:That looks really cool!
But surely the gasses traveling so far to the turbo would allow them more time to cool down?

When I'm hard parked at the show'n'shine it's what looks good that matters!

85_Z31 wrote:If you wanted to send me a photocopy of the flange and some measurements

I Could have a go at doing a CAD model for you

Sweet man, the header flange is in the Autobend catalogue so I can send you that easy enough, next time I'm down at work I'll grab some measurements for the distance between the head flange and turbo flange etc.

Spotted ya in traffic today while riding to the pub. Looks tough amongst a sea of lame modern cars!

I've had this problem with the passengers window where it was getting slower and slower to the point that I couldn't get it to go up or down more than about 50mm so I decided to tackle it today. Was actually pretty easy to remove the motor and the rest of the assembly, when we stripped my mates HR30 coupe parts car I made sure I grabbed all the window motors, turns out they are different of course!



DR on the left, HR on the right. Smaller for weight reduction? They look like they would interchange.

Anyway, I couldn't see anything obviously wrong so I pulled the motor apart after removing a really rusty screw holding it to the rest of the assembly. Again I couldn't see anything wrong inside the motor, there was a bit of marking on the commutator so I cleaned that up with some fine sand paper, cleaned out between the segments and put it back together, cleaned out around the drive gear and popped the cover off and moved some grease around inside, tested it and yay, fast glass again. Pity the drivers side one is slow now, I'll have to pull that apart one day.

Got a new PCV valve on the weekend and swapped it with the one on the car tonight, I'm assuming it's the original one, had the Datsun hamburger on the side. The one I took off seemed a little bit sticky but probably would have cleaned up alright but I fitted the new one anyway. Haven't driven it yet but hopefully that was the problem.

The gearbox sounds like it's getting worse so I thought I'd have a look at this mount I got off my mates HR30, it's off a 3N71B auto that was behind an L20ET, I don't know why it's different to the manual one, the auto trans mount looks like it's in the same position as a C series box? It's weird, it's been a long time since I looked at a Z auto crossmember but from what I can remember they're the same as the manuals. I wonder what the 4 speed auto R30 mounts look like?

Gearbox on the right is a bit odd ball, it's a C series box but from behind an LD28. Gearbox on the left is an S130 B box.



So when I put the random mount on the C series box the holes to mount it to the body are inline with where the original mount holes are (the normal crossmember has the body mount holes inline with the box mounting holes). So this means I should be able to put a C series box behind the FJ without having to modify the mount at all! I've got the LD C series box and I'm getting another one for free soon (they are both minus the bellhousings), this one seems okay but I don't know what the ratios are like, I've also got a box from behind an RB20 which might have better ratios but has a rooted centre countershaft being like the box in the DR already.

Do you have any plans for the noisy "B" gearbox?

Probably going to keep it, trying to keep all the factory parts of the thing, just in case the next owner wants to put it back to factory.

The RB bell housing pattern is pretty close apart from 1 hole which people just redrill and sometimes don't even fill up the old hole. Redrilling it would be the easiest option then I don't need to take the bell housing off the FJ box and I get the bigger countershaft bearing without having to modify the bell housing. Haven't quite decided what to do yet.

Swapped the front springs today for some that came off one of the HR30 parts cars, they are some sort of lowered spring, they're blue and had NIS 07 or something written on them, I didn't need spring compressors to take them off the struts they were on. Funnily enough the Cobras that I took out are listed for a 210 Skyline rather than an R30. It looks a bit lower which is good, I took a measurement before so once it's settled a bit I'll take another measure. Cobras are already on Trademe.

Now I just have to do the rears, I've got some lowered Z springs which I might try, if they aren't lower I might just chop a coil or two off till it's even front and back.