Beaver's 120y coupe

[joelbrown]

hell yea!! they look the tits! much beta pic than the one at the top of the page, shows off meke dish

personally id rock em without cent caps and jst paint up drums and polish up frnt brg caps, maybe.

ive got some good free storage space under my uterus wheel arches for your fins

[beaver]

haha join the queue for the fins!

[beaver]

Driveshaft is away getting rebuilt and balanced, hopefully sort out some of the vibrations.

Got two tyres (175/60s for now) on new wheels (thanks to Joe, and will have two more next week!) so chucked them on. Obviously needs to go lower but it is not as comical as I was expecting so will roll them once all tyres are on. got the ruler out and another 2" drop will tuck ~10mm tyre up front and a bit more at the back (sills are level) so thats the next step. Will then be able to run 175/50s without looking stupid.
 

 

[Datto_610]

Can't wait to see this beauty again in a few weeks! Looking good man

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[beaver]

Small update.

All wheels are fitted up and chucked them on.

Driveshaft is back in.

Also I think there is somthing up with the diff. It makes an odd noise sometime when driving and I had it idling in 2nd on axle stands and it was making the same noise. It also looked like the left axle/hub face wasnt spinning true.

Interesting.

Also picked up some spare front struts to chop up.

Have decided on another 2" drop all around. Will get leaves reset 2" and keep the 2" blocks as well (leaves reset 4" would be a bit silly/super inverted). Not sure what to do up front yet. At this stage im favoring grabbing some body adjustable s13 stuff (or similar) and getting a threaded boss welded to the struts. Got all excited when someone told me how cheap the guys at MRP can do it, but upon contacting them I was informed they have changed the gear they use (used to use their cheap as in house MRP branded stuff) to more expensive gear which starts at ~$800 and then extra work the welding etc.

Ive been told s13 top hats/camber plates will fit so this is why ill start looking at s13 stuff. Just need to make sure it will be short enough/low enough. Should be able to pick up a pair of fronts for ~300-400 and then give handjobs to some to make up the boss and weld it up etc.

[Kitch]

S13 camber tops bolt straight in (practically) you just need to drill existing holes about +3mm hole size to accommodate larger studs, and PCD difference of a mm or two. my D2's are ex S13 spec. well that was the case in my KB110

As you say if you start at top and work your way down, might be a good approach.

I am sure its been done before, if you have a dig around on the net? ie...
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... Strut_Swap" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://bez1200.wordpress.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/vie ... _id=175121" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/27339 ... 200-sedan/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



You got a slight bent axle with this diff vibration etc?

[beaver]

Oh nah fuck using s13 hubs/arms etc, just going to use the strut. and will weld a boss onto the 120y strut for it to screw into.

[z181200]

Use cefiro rear shocks. Get a threaded sleeve made up and weld to standard suspension. Then you wil have body ajustable before you wind the spings uncaptive. Cefiros are nice and short. S13 top hats

[z181200]

Wil be cheap too.

[beaver]

Think rooooooob used cefiro stuff on his sunny Yeh?