New Zealand Datsun Club

DJZ wrote:For the difference in power vs. cost you'd be better of just sticking with an L28 + cam + triple carbs, maybe some flat top pistons if you can find a set around.

I agree - an L28 with a simple rebuild, cam would yield almost as much power as cheap L31 - but more than likely will cost less as once you get an L28 you have most of the parts already right there - missing the flat-tops which can be hard to find. However there are other ways to get higher CR without the flat-top but do involve simple tricks - shave the head, cam tower shims and mod to the chain tensioner.

Like I say the bits on the side of the motor bet it L28, L31 is the biggest cost of the "Cheap Engine" that assumes you don't have them already

I was talking to someone the other day about adding a turbo to a race car....he advised against that as Motorsport don't like that unless the car/engine was factory fitted with a turbo. By this he meant for example a BMW 2002 - there was the TII version which left the factory with a turbo. Motorsport NZ are happy for an original TII to run the factory turbo ie it as always a turbo. However a standard 2002 non turbo car (even though the same chassis etc) that is then made into a replica TII - that does not cut it. However that is only what I was told - this guy has a factory turbo charged car and made sure it was the factory turbo car for this reason = no issues.

So I would also check with Motorsport what they will allow as that might also help in the engine choice.

L28 it is .


Just to find one now

talk to aaron. Think he has a spare L28, then just scour trademe for suitable carb combo. That will be the expensive/hard part to find, unless you want to run a couple of sets of 40mm R1 carbs. but tuning could be a pain

I'd talk to Damon about carbs. From memory he knows some place in Italy that sell carbs at a decent price already jetted to your requirements.

Wow ....

IMO
Get a standard Rb20 det motor and box and ecu ....
Buy a wrecked gtst ...

Done ....
Super reliable / all the power you would ever need (for the first year anyway)
Cheap

Hey,

Staying away from turbo for this reason.

classicdat wrote: Classes are; 0-1300, 1301-1600, 1601-2000, 2000-3000, 3000 and over. Turbo Factor is X 1.7 I think, so 2L FJ20 = 3.4L so running with the Big Boys, and 4WDs
Jason Smith from old school owns the 3L class at present in his S5 RX7, non turbo.
I won the class 3 seasons ago in my Z running a pretty std L28 so with an RB you should be quite competitive. With an RB 30 you could get in some miles and get the handling and stopping sorted, before going for the big up-grade. Engine only has to appear original for classics, eg, L24 to L28 conversion, depending on what Cert of Description (COD)you want, as Mike points out the fact that you are Japanese and not a Z will mean you can run with a 'B' COD in anything that you will be 'allowed' to enter. So in time you could build an L28ET to take the place of the RB not upsetting the balance too much and run in classics.

I do like the ole' RBs played with a few in my time
Unless you know something Ive missed. This is after all my entry into the sport and know very little

The main plan is to just get out there and soak up as much track time as poss, but I want to have a good starting base for future devolpment.

RB20 det / five speed would have to be the best bang for buck

Anything else you will have to spend a fortune on just to get it to make the same or less power as a standard gtst engine.
Aslo Im unsure why all the comments about class racing ....
Who cares.....just join a car club and do every single clubmans and practice day you can, then think about series racing .....

ca18de or det