New Zealand Datsun Club

I have a number of X-member mounts, unsure if 110 / 210 or 310.
But if you have a pic or dimensions of what you need I will have a look for you

That’s a good point Beaver. I didn’t really think of that, I’ll use the correct mounting position now.

Thanks Kitch, The one I’m after is a B310 60 series gearbox mount. I believe it is the same one that you used in your coupe. Looks like this?
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/p ... ?lid=23295" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Last night I finally managed to get the motor and gearbox in a position that I was happy with. The rear heater outlet on the head is now clearing the firewall by about 6mm and the driveshaft would be a slight downward angle from the gearbox to the diff. However the clutch fork is hitting the tunnel with the gearbox in its current position. Rather than bashing the tunnel to make it fit I’m going to take 5mm of the length of the lever to get a good amount of clearance. I’m also going to remove the elbow from the back of the head and take of 5mm of unused thread that it currently has to get more clearance.

with the clutch fork, have you pulled it forward to take up the slack ? basically the fork will sit at about a 90 deg angle to the box with no forward pressure, the spring pulls it back and you may need to push it forward to take the slack up, which may give you the clearance you need.

sorry the only rubber mount I have spare like that was buggered,
can you get them new by any chance? perhaps aftermarket taiwenese knock offs?

i have found a gearbox cross member rubber mount if interested??? pm me

You can get them new (I think the mount shop does them), and from what I can tell they are the same as an s13/14 silvia gbox mount

Thanks Kitch and tlsunny. I think getting a new one would be the best idea as chances are any 2nd hand ones are almost flogged out.

Oh sweet, thanks for that Beaver. I've already tried the mount shop, they said they won't have any till August. I'll give them another try for a Silvia one as it looks like the only difference is two extra bolts, else I'll see if Scott can get them.

I've now got the gearbox in and shouldn't need to touch the clutch fork. With the cable in and adjusted it brings it right forward with plenty of clearance. Also I've drawn up the crossmember so I just need to get it cut out. I was thinking 8mm plate should be strong enough. Here's the design.

So I've managed to get a fair bit done over the last few weeks.

Thanks to Beavers advice I got an s13/s14 gearbox mount from the mount shop. It was only $60 instead of the $220 for a b310 one from Scott or $270 straight from Nissan. They aren't exactly the same as a b310 mount. They have a slight offset and are slightly bigger so I had to slot the mounting holes by a few mm to get it to sit flat on the gearbox.

I also got back the gearbox crossmember I had cut by a friend. I'm so glad that I got laser cut as it came out mint, far better than wasting a few hours cutting it by hand with a grinder. Thankfully I told him to not cut the holes so I could offset them for the Silvia gearbox mount which is not symmetrical.

After a few hundred measurements grinding and drilling I was able to get the mount onto the car. All I need now is some slightly longer bolts and to machine up some spacers to go between the car and the gearbox mount.

The next thing I needed to get sorted was the driveshaft. I measured it up and it needed to be 35mm shorter! Considering that the 5 speed boxes are the same length as 4 speeds this shows how shoddy some of the work on the car is.

My old man who's a fitter took the driveshaft to work to shorten it. Turns out that who ever shortened it before had chopped the diff yoke end of another drive shaft and slid it into the tube of my current driveshaft. The two tubes weren't the same size so they used electrical tape to make up for the size difference.

My dad parted the old tube off the diff yoke and made a spacer which he pressed onto the yoke and then onto the driveshaft tube. All I need to do now is remove the universal joints and replace them which is going to be pretty tricky as someone has welded them in.... Some people should just not touch cars!

I also have picked up another h165 diff which I'm going to rebuild as I have a feeling my current diff is fairly stuffed as it has a huge amount of backlash.

I think I saw this at a car show in Hanmer, Awesome car !

From my initial measurements, the h165 is 45mm longer than the h145 the 1200 coupe comes with stock, so the shaft needs to be 45mm ish shorter.

Ive still got to do this but will mount the engine/box/axle 1st to get it right as its $300 to get it made and balanced.