New Zealand Datsun Club

Sorry but those are castor rods not tie rods... looking good! Can't wait to see the end result!

Yeah, I think I called them caster rods, then changed to tie rods.

Anyway, Easter came and went and not much more got done on the car. I'm sick of searching the internet for even an image of a bolt in gearbox cross member/mount so took matters into my own hands. Few beers and Codys later I had a plan.

On left is my auto cross member mount from the A series engine (with it's strange wing things), and on the right is a gearbox mount from a Toyota Surf or Hilux. (i'm not 100% sure which) It bolts up using the exact method I intend to use, but is a bit big.


I grabbed out my trusty grinder (with the cut off blade) and after another Codys, I did what I do best! I trimmed about 20mm off each side of the Toyota gearbox mount to allow it to fit up into the tunnel. A pleasant surprise was the bolt pattern matched on one end, so I only needed to drill 2 new holes to blot the L series gearbox to. I had to also trim off a funny wing thing from the Datsun mount. It did nothing anyway. Here is the Toyota mount cut, drilled and bolted to the Datsun A series auto mount.


The rest was easy... just bolted it up!


And I have the right steering tie rod ends which bolt into my 310 steering knuckles and are the correct size so new ones are on the parts-to-order list.


And I reckon that's about it other than a pedal box and a hydraulic clutch. The intention now is to pull the engine and do some stuff to that, and get an exhaust sorted. Replace all the bushes, ends, links etc then fix up the brakes on the car. Roll or pull the guards... and sort out a sway bar too. Put a electric front fan on it and sort a radiator.

Probably forgot stuff as well but hey... The L series is in. It wasn't 100% bolt in, as I had to cut/grind and drill but it was certainly weld free or change the car body free and could be reversed with no evidence left behind.

One of the other guys may know - but if the gearbox you have is a short L series box - by getting a "long" L series ie long 5 speed id say the original mount would be able to be used, thus not needing your extra plate and you get that factory look

To get enough room to even consider getting the 5 speed in there, or any long box I would need to go back to the 510 engine cross member to get the room. That puts the motor so far forward that the radiator can't fit. And even then I might need to shorten the drive shaft.

It doesn't feel like much has been done in the last week or so but I have pulled the engine and box out, banged in a new frost plug, and started sealing everything up.

I've also been trying to get my head around this clutch pedal. This morning I just bit the bullet and pulled out the auto pedal box to figure out what to do.



As you can see the auto pedal box has an allowance for the clutch to bolt in. The manual pedal box from a B210 has a different bolt in pattern which doesn't line up with the holes in my firewall. The answer is to use the auto pedal box by bolting in the clutch pedal itself and shaft into it. I will still need to drill a large hole in the firewall to fit the clutch master cylinder, and might need to trim the auto brake pedal with my trusty grinder.

Great work.

I swapped over the manual shaft and pedal tonight to the auto pedal box. I drilled the hole in the pedal to accommodate the hydraulic clutch and have it all test fitted ready to go back into the car. I have the right sized hole saw for the firewall but can I find the arbor?

This morning saw a quick trip to Mitre10 for an arbor and upon return I got a hole cut, and pedal box back in.

Too easy!

So close! After a big push yesterday, I have the engine back in the car, the gearbox and drive shaft all bolted up, and a car that's now rolling. Have I sat in the car making car noises, while clutch kicking the shit out of 3rd? maybe.....



More or less I just have to get the engine finished off now, pumped and wired, new leads, and plugs etc, and find a radiator. And build that exhaust to suit the headers. And brakes to bolt on... I really shouldn't forget the brakes.



All the 610 parts work, my shortened 310 struts work a treat. Height is perfect.

New ball joints went in yesterday before the struts and I spanner checked everything while I was there. In the end I have used a Holden Astra F front sway bar. It's a little lighter but it fits and clears the 610 engine cross member and the engine. I figure I'm better to have a light one than none at all.



So that's the conversion. Well, that's my conversion... Not quite bolt in, but minimal fabrication required. (A P610 to raid for parts is helpful!)