New Zealand Datsun Club

broke wrote:Hose downsizer? Did you put a joiner fitting in the hose, or did you find something to thread into the fuel pump? If you put a joiner in the hose and you want to put thread tape around it to build it up, then that won't work.

If you put a fitting into the pump and it's leaking from the threads, then you probably put a NPTF fitting into a BSPT port.... Or vice versa. They are similar, but have different TPI and taper angles. Thread tape may work, but you'd be better off using the right fitting.

Hose downsizer.. its was basically 3 brass hose fitting peices with different sized hole on the each end (hard to explain will upload a picture later...

Other issue i'm having is now under heavy load or when you put the foot down its loosing power around the 3000 rpm range any ideas what could be causing that?

Cheers

Nathan

Hey Nathan are you running out of fuel now you have reduced the flow? Is your float level correct in the carb, does it drop under load? If the pump is the only thing that has changed I'd start there.
Do you have power steering? Can you fit a mechanical pump to it?

classicdat wrote:Hey Nathan are you running out of fuel now you have reduced the flow? Is your float level correct in the carb, does it drop under load? If the pump is the only thing that has changed I'd start there.
Do you have power steering? Can you fit a mechanical pump to it?

My first thought was that i am running out of fuel, but being the original fuel pump that run this engine i cant make sense of it.

i do have power steering and would rather stick to electronic pump

the fuel in the carb seems a bit lower than it should be



Had a theory...... it could be that some of the flow is being directed back down the return line?



Nathan

A wise man once said that 99% of carburettor problems aren't the carburettor. Did you fully remove the old efi pump (i.e. it's not trying to suck through the old pump)? Have you replaced the fuel filter? 260C pumps have an internal fuel filter element (as Brocky discovered one day). What dizzy are you using? I vaguely recall something about an electronic one, if you're still using the one out of my old car then replace the points and condenser. If not, did you remember to ditch the ballast resistor and get a non-ballast coil? Have you replaced or checked the dizzy cap? Rotor? Leads? Plugs? Ignition module? Any loose wires?

Eliminate all these other variables before touching the carb.

broke wrote:A wise man once said that 99% of carburettor problems aren't the carburettor. Did you fully remove the old efi pump (i.e. it's not trying to suck through the old pump)? Have you replaced the fuel filter? 260C pumps have an internal fuel filter element (as Brocky discovered one day). What dizzy are you using? I vaguely recall something about an electronic one, if you're still using the one out of my old car then replace the points and condenser. If not, did you remember to ditch the ballast resistor and get a non-ballast coil? Have you replaced or checked the dizzy cap? Rotor? Leads? Plugs? Ignition module? Any loose wires?

Eliminate all these other variables before touching the carb.

Cheers John, lot of good ideas there! with day light saving here ill have a play after work.

Did you fully remove the old efi pump (i.e. it's not trying to suck through the old pump)? Yes, fully removed and replaced with the 260c one

Have you replaced the fuel filter? 260C pumps have an internal fuel filter element (as Brocky discovered one day). I opened up the pump and inspected the fuel filter in the pump, seems to be fine

What dizzy are you using? Was running the standard points dizzy, but started putting in the electronic one on sunday, but made no difference as far as i could tell

If not, did you remember to ditch the ballast resistor and get a non-ballast coil? No I havent changed the coil

Have you replaced or checked the dizzy cap? Both Dizzy caps are in good condition as are the rotors

Leads? haven't changed, new ones wouldn't hurt

Plugs? have already put new ones in, checked them again they seem fine

Car ran fine before i changed the fuel pump, which makes me think its fuel related, also the way it dies when it goes under heavy load also makes me think something fuel related.

Nathan

That seems odd, it never had any problems like that in my car. Put up a pic of this fuel pump fitting you made. Also you should probably get a non ballast coil for an electronic distributor.

Float level looks low, if the reducer is restricting flow to the carb this may be an issue, raising the float level would be the first change I would make.
I agree with John but am focused on the carb and fuel system because that is what has been changed.
Sometimes a change in the fuel system unmasks a weakness in the ignition system. The fact that all cylinders lose power points to the fuel system also, leads would manifest as a misfire or individual cylinder playing up.

The return line has a restrictor in it and only really passes fuel once the float valve closes.
Try raising the float level and see if that changes anything, if it repeats the power loss see if you can stop the engine and the pump and check the level in the fuel bowl, this can confirm if the issue is starvation or you need to look somewhere else.

All the best, give me a yell if you want a hand have a look.

broke wrote:That seems odd, it never had any problems like that in my car. Put up a pic of this fuel pump fitting you made. Also you should probably get a non ballast coil for an electronic distributor.

In regard to the fuel "fitting" i ending up finding an elbow that just screwed into the fuel pump to replace the existing one.

Will get a non ballast coil for the dizzy

classicdat wrote:Float level looks low, if the reducer is restricting flow to the carb this may be an issue, raising the float level would be the first change I would make.
I agree with John but am focused on the carb and fuel system because that is what has been changed.
Sometimes a change in the fuel system unmasks a weakness in the ignition system. The fact that all cylinders lose power points to the fuel system also, leads would manifest as a misfire or individual cylinder playing up.

The return line has a restrictor in it and only really passes fuel once the float valve closes.
Try raising the float level and see if that changes anything, if it repeats the power loss see if you can stop the engine and the pump and check the level in the fuel bowl, this can confirm if the issue is starvation or you need to look somewhere else.

All the best, give me a yell if you want a hand have a look.

I agree float level does look low, will have a look at changing the float level tonight and let you know how it goes.

Nathan

I have a coil from a L20e you can try?

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Hey Nathan not wanting to tell you how to suck eggs, wish someone had warned me on occations like before the circlip went flying There is a wee spacer on the pivot of the float that sits up against the glass, watch it doesn't fall out as you remove the glass.