New Zealand Datsun Club

Best to use a product designed for its application

Yeap, the pads having a rubber backing on them when you buy them, there are no other shims. I've tried the CRC disc brake quiet:



One pad was stuck to the pistons when I took them apart to put the new pads in, the other was loose. The calipers are only made to take a 30mm wide rotor but I'm running 32mm GTR rotors in them, I don't know if the calipers are machined differently or different castings to take the wider rotors etc etc, nothing is touching that I can see, things were reasonably tight to get apart but once I'd pushed the pistons back everything went together reasonably loosely.

To me it sounds like the squeal is coming from the front, I've had them apart 4 or 5 times now and can't see anything wrong. The back pads definitely need replacing so I will try and do that over the next couple of days.

Wurth great product twice that of CRC.
Also Wurth Brake cleaner is mean

my1200 wrote:Wurth great product twice that of CRC.
Also Wurth Brake cleaner is mean

I second that.

Who sells Wurth stuff? BNT? Might have to try some.

To add to the never ending list of things I keep finding wrong with this thing, after trying the R31 companion flanges, flipping the bearing cage on the right hand out CV to shorten the axle a little bit and replacing the back pads I've now developed another noise from the right hand rear, it's hard to describe but seems to be when the shock is extending after hitting a bump etc. I've had a bit of a poke around for that and the only thing I can find is that possibly the brake pads are loose in the caliper due to one of the removable slider plate things was a bit broken or possibly the piston hasn't advanced fully due to the rubber boot on it not being in the right place? I'm trying to find another slider plate thing.

Also while investigating this noise I thought I'd check out the loose wheel bearing that the guy noted on my warrant sheet last time (also the right rear). Jacked it up the other day and had a feel, definitely some movement. Drop the axle off and tighten up the nut a bit more, still movement, tighten it up more and more (the torque range for this nut is pretty big) got to about 220ftlb and there was still movement. I replaced the bearings when I fitted the 5 stud hubs originally which was about 3 years ago so this seemed a little strange?

Pulled that whole side apart tonight, knocked the hub out extremely easily which made me sad. Took the bearings out and the inner bearing pretty much just drops onto the hub with no force required, they should be press fit from what I understand. I also found some strands of metal shavings on the inside of the control arm between the two bearings which is a bit worrying, I'm going to be replacing the bearing spacers and bearings, I'll give the bearings a good clean at work tomorrow to see if I can find out where the metal has come from. Basically it means one of my 5 stud hubs is rooted. I'm in the process of buying another pair which hopefully aren't worn, I'll have a chat to the guys at HBI and see if they can think of a way of fixing it, possibly machining it back and fitting a sleeve which I can tack in place (even though you aren't supposed to weld axle parts I don't think). The other way might be metal spraying but I don't really know anything about that.

The good news if I can get it fixed is I'll have a full set of 5 stud hubs for the DR now! Also I got a pair of spare 8Kg springs from my mate out of the front of his S13, they are 40mm shorter than the rear springs in my car which are 6Kg but I might try and fit them and see if I can get the height etc right with them. It's basically just to test whether I can stop the companion flanges hitting the body before I have to go and buy new front springs too.

Contact ya local Wurth Rep. Also trade store now open on Durham st number 45.

There are two fixes Dan.
What I'd do, (Okay, I'm a rough cunt) is center punch around the periphery of the hub where the bearing runs. This will leave raised dimples that will make the bearing tight. Then assemble them with a shitload of loc-tite bearing retaining compound. This will fill up the spaces between the dimples and the inside of the bearing inner, and the hub. Plus it wont flatten out like the dimples eventually will.
It maya be possible to build up the hub with weld, and machine it back down to the correct diamention. Although the heat won't enhance the torque resistance of the hub. Maybe turn it down a bit and shrink like a speedy sleeve over it? (Once again won't enhance the strength of the hub)

DJZ wrote:a bunch of stuff about hubs

Your 5 stud Hubs got resent from USA today, I have the tracking number for it too.

Bartman wrote:There are two fixes Dan.
What I'd do, (Okay, I'm a rough cunt) is center punch around the periphery of the hub where the bearing runs. This will leave raised dimples that will make the bearing tight. Then assemble them with a shitload of loc-tite bearing retaining compound. This will fill up the spaces between the dimples and the inside of the bearing inner, and the hub. Plus it wont flatten out like the dimples eventually will.
It maya be possible to build up the hub with weld, and machine it back down to the correct diamention. Although the heat won't enhance the torque resistance of the hub. Maybe turn it down a bit and shrink like a speedy sleeve over it? (Once again won't enhance the strength of the hub)

Metal spraying is I think the only viable long term repair for the hub itself, I talked to a couple of people today and it doesn't look possible to sleeve it as the diameter of the bearing surface is too close to the diameter of the spline so the sleeve would be too thin. I'll try and ring some people about spraying tomorrow but replacement is going to be the cheapest/easiest way of fixing it.

85_Z31 wrote:Your 5 stud Hubs got resent from USA today, I have the tracking number for it too.

How much can you get a pair of rears for?