New Zealand Datsun Club

You're a machine when you get going Daniel!

Thanks Bart, I've only got limited time off so am trying to fit in as much as I can.

Mucked around a little bit with this today, turns out after fitting the boost controller it's making a whole 0.2 bar which is about 3psi. I've reset the boost controller and will have to go through the leaning mode again. The wastegate was pretty much opening as soon as it came on boost which makes for a noisy but slow car.

Fixed the boost controller, runs much better on 15 psi. Got some tubing to plumb back the wastegate and also a 3" 2 bolt exhaust flange so I can make the down pipe fully 3", will do that one night this week.

This is where I'm at the with throttle bodies, they are basically ready to bolt together and chuck on but I'm waiting till I've got another car to drive before going ahead with them. I made up a TPS bracket and adaptor, looks like they'll work okay, I still need tidy up the bracket a bit but it's mostly there.

I've pretty much decided to tidy this thing up and sell it so I can put some money into the other cars. The throttle bodies have been sold, I'll keep the plenum because of the work I've done to it and maybe I'll have another FJ in the future.

The car has been having some cooling issues, especially in traffic. When sitting the temperature climbs and I can't hear the fans coming on (have never really been able to). Today I've connected both fans together with a relay and through the switch in the bottom tank. The stock DR set is the bigger fan uses the fan switch in the bottom tank, and the smaller fan uses the fan switch in the top tank. I've also added a little LED temporarily so I can see when the relay switches on so I have a pretty good idea that the fans are going, it's not what I really wanted as I'd like the LED to come on when the fans are actually moving not the relay switching but I haven't thought of a good way to do this yet, possibly some sort of load sensing switch?

DJZ wrote:I've pretty much decided to tidy this thing up and sell it so I can put some money into the other cars. The throttle bodies have been sold, I'll keep the plenum because of the work I've done to it and maybe I'll have another FJ in the future.

The car has been having some cooling issues, especially in traffic. When sitting the temperature climbs and I can't hear the fans coming on (have never really been able to). Today I've connected both fans together with a relay and through the switch in the bottom tank. The stock DR set is the bigger fan uses the fan switch in the bottom tank, and the smaller fan uses the fan switch in the top tank. I've also added a little LED temporarily so I can see when the relay switches on so I have a pretty good idea that the fans are going, it's not what I really wanted as I'd like the LED to come on when the fans are actually moving not the relay switching but I haven't thought of a good way to do this yet, possibly some sort of load sensing switch?

Splice the LED loop into the Fans +- so you know if the fan is going, the LED is going..... What sort of coin are you chasing for this car (out of curiosity).

gingofthesouth wrote:Splice the LED loop into the Fans +- so you know if the fan is going, the LED is going..... What sort of coin are you chasing for this car (out of curiosity).

I can't put the LED in series with the fan as it's not made to take the current, any other way I can think of only guarantees that the relay has switched. Possibly if I had two LEDs, one off the +12 to the fan and one off the GND for the fan, then if the +12 is going then I know the relay has switched but if the GND one isn't going then I know the fan isn't going. I'm complicating this way too much anyway.

Haven't decided on a price yet as it will depend on how much tidying I do, I plan on getting the red exterior parts of the car repainted and possibly replace the dash and some other interior bits.

DJZ wrote:

gingofthesouth wrote:Splice the LED loop into the Fans +- so you know if the fan is going, the LED is going..... What sort of coin are you chasing for this car (out of curiosity).

I can't put the LED in series with the fan as it's not made to take the current, any other way I can think of only guarantees that the relay has switched. Possibly if I had two LEDs, one off the +12 to the fan and one off the GND for the fan, then if the +12 is going then I know the relay has switched but if the GND one isn't going then I know the fan isn't going. I'm complicating this way too much anyway.

Haven't decided on a price yet as it will depend on how much tidying I do, I plan on getting the red exterior parts of the car repainted and possibly replace the dash and some other interior bits.

I meant in parallel across the fan (you know, both the +ve and -ve of the fan).

gingofthesouth wrote:

DJZ wrote:

gingofthesouth wrote:Splice the LED loop into the Fans +- so you know if the fan is going, the LED is going..... What sort of coin are you chasing for this car (out of curiosity).

I can't put the LED in series with the fan as it's not made to take the current, any other way I can think of only guarantees that the relay has switched. Possibly if I had two LEDs, one off the +12 to the fan and one off the GND for the fan, then if the +12 is going then I know the relay has switched but if the GND one isn't going then I know the fan isn't going. I'm complicating this way too much anyway.

Haven't decided on a price yet as it will depend on how much tidying I do, I plan on getting the red exterior parts of the car repainted and possibly replace the dash and some other interior bits.

I meant in parallel....

Yes, but that still won't tell me if the fan is actually going....

Replaced the fan switch, again. Seems to be working okay now, have left both fans connected together with the relay in place.

When we wrecked my mates HR30s I kept the aftermarket PIAA electric mirror setup off one of them, I think I've mentioned it before. In preparation for the southern cruise I finally fitted the rubber seals that wrap around the front/top of the doors, it's nice and quiet now.

Also since I got the black Z back I thought I'd try the real Tial BOV on the DR, even though it had the same spring in it as the fake one it was open at idle, I ordered a new -11 PSI spring (the stiffest one Tial does) from NZ Performance and fitted it today, seemed to make a bit of difference, I've been having trouble with the fake valve being open at part throttle.

So it goes harder now?