Kitchs 1200 Coupe - road legal!

[nick_m]

dont worry luke, i think most of us fail to build a car to kitchs level. he is an absolute perfectionist, everything is just spot on!

[Dattochriswagon]

Agreed. Just take the honour of parking beside him at the nationals.

[Kitch]

Small amount of progress on the wiring, for Dan or anyone else who may be interested


I have run the RH loom through the inner guard, and lengthened/shortened wires as required.
This is just for the lights/indicators & new horns, but quite time consuming none the less.
I was a good boy and soldered and heat shrunk all joints
I will fix P-clips to the threads of overlength fender mount bolts, with washers and backing nuts.




Spent the last couple of hours frigging around sorting out all the new electrical component locations.
Have managed to squeeze all in against firewall on passenger side, have made a MDF back board prototype.
finished article will be 3-4mm Alloy powdercoated matt black.
I had to muck around and wire up wiper etc to check it clears OK during oscillation (which is does now)
bit to squeeze in with ECU, O2 controller, new relays and fuse block.
I have new wire loom penetrations just below the parcel shelf rear support (for EFI wiring)
and also in LH A pillar (for LH lighting, Washer bag, VR conditioner and electrical fan)
so I should be able to route cables simply without it looking too messy (I hope at least)



View showing (brand new) parcel shelf positioned, with no obvious visible electrical components
ECU serial port is easily accessible as it is just to the Left of the heater
the O2 calibration buttons etc will be nearby also, and tune leads are flexy fly leads, so I will tie
them off behind the parcel tray also, or position near the ECU connection

[datsunboy]

Cool stuff kitch great fun huh? Lol.
On a side note before you carry on..... You can get these really good hella relays that have a spade type fuse built in. You can also get a plug in base for them so you can mount the base and have the relays easily removable.
I use them on all my jobs now, but it does cost about $60 for a set of 3....... good quality stuff tho

[Kitch]

yeah I should have got that type of relay.
however all but the fan relay (fused one on LH side - but fuse not fitted)
are powering multiple outputs, which have different currents/overloads.
ie I have a fuel relay, doing the pump & injector set 1 & 2
and main relay is doing ECU, coil main power, & O2 power feed
rather than individual relays per device, I was trying to be a bit more cost effective, and also keep components to a minimum.

Would have been nice in hindsight, to have a bank of relays with individual outputs.

Kind of learning as I go, and trying to keep costs down, as long as I don't do anything that is going to be a hazard or give me reliability issues I will be happy!

[datsunboy]

Haha fair enough. I would still definitely recommend the plug in base tho. They are multi fit so should fit your relays.
That way if you ever have to replace a relay you wont have to remember where each wire goes. Just plug and play lol.
Plus I use my soldering iron to melt in some lettering to the bases to identify them. Then you'll never forget which one does what

[Kitch]

sounds like a good idea.
where would I get the bases - dare I say it I got the relays from supercheap...

[datsunboy]

You could get them from bnt. Brocky normally sorts them out fire me.

[Kitch]

My new Z seats have arrived, I am stoked, they suit it beautifully.
And they are quite light, and nice slim profile.
Tidy condition, but obviously need retrimming.
Might look at import covers from the states as a cheap/easy option
(however some images of those kits, make them look a bit doggy / baggy)

Chucked them in the car (just sitting in there not fixed)










And on the ITB front, I made up a MDF jig, and had my mate at work help me cut
the head flange side (double angle cut, hence why I needed the jig)
Have just temporarily assembled the manifold, to test fit clearances
and overall layout. Am happy with geometry, and just enough space to strut tower
inlet flange needs a wee grind up to clear exhaust flanges, but not much.
(be 6-8mm more clearance, when temp manifold support MDF is removed, and everything welded up)

[classicdat]

Kitch are you playing tricks or where does the injector go on #1 throttle body? What sort of air cleaner are you going to run, Need to be see through! they look great.