New Zealand Datsun Club

Rb26's use a full Grand Gridle Anyway, it would be difficult to improve the Crank Gridle without going to extreme measures.I don't see how a Dry sump setup stops the crank flexing either.

Daniel , do you think the bearing damage was from the crank flexing or the particles going through the oil galleries ?

It would be interesting to torque the Gridle back into the block and measure all the bearing journals with a T gauge and a micrometer to see if any were out of round. Perhaps it needs line bored and there was some other issue that's not helping the situation

From what I understand the Gibson Motorsport cars still used a wet sump which was extended (much like the weld on kits you can buy). I'm pretty sure they also ran Reimax gears in a standard/N1 pump housing.

The Super Taikyu cars ran a pretty sweet swinging oil pickup:

Bearing damage would be from lack of oil supply rather than anything else I believe. What's the technical term? Lack of pressure to maintain a film of oil?

I'm pretty sure my failure was caused by shit oil pump gears + possibly loose fitment between the drive collar and pump + loose/worn crank pulley + hitting the limiter causing the collar to bash into the centre gear in the pump.

A new pump with non shit gears and possibly a new collar will fix all the problems if the crank is actually okay, it's at MPL getting checked at the moment. Got a price back for the Nitto pump, $1900 for the pump, $225 for the collar and $150 freight as they don't keep them in stock.

Faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaark!

1JZ-GTE's are pretty inexpensive, reliable and very torquey if you get hte VVTi version....

Nah, if I was going to change motors it'd be to a Nissan V8 of some sort.

Trailered this thing home today, bit sad seeing it back on a trailer after so little time but oh well.

I've decided to put the RB20DET out of the old R30 and originally ex Z31 into it, I've had it sitting in the garage ever since I sold the R30 to Adam so I may as well make use of it till I can afford to fix the 26 properly. Should be a fairly straight foward swap, I need to change the sump to the rear bowl one and make a new downpipe which is going to be the hardest/most annoying bit (I hope). I think I can have the motor in and running possibly by Wednesday.

Took the front covers off to change the cam belt, as far as I can tell it's the cam belt that was fitted in the factory, it's still got 23,000Ks to go and actually looks pretty good but since it's at a guess 25 years old I thought I'd swap it for the Gates racing one off the 26. I'm going to replace all the cam belt bits on the 26 when I reassemble it, the new idler I fitted feels quite tight, I think I'll get a genuine tensioner and idler next time.





Removed the lightened flywheel and new clutch that it's had on it, I'm going to fit the lightweight flywheel that was on the 26 and refit the new clutch. Also removed the turbo water lines, I'm going to be using the turbo that was originally on the FJ which doesn't have a water cooler centre section so I'll have to bung them up. I took the Link loom that I had on it off as well, I should be able to use the loom that was on the 26 which means I won't have to remove it from the car.

There's an R33 RB26 crank on Trademe that I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy, it has the wide oil pump drive standard and the guy thinks the journals are standard size (the current crank is under size on the big ends). It does have a bit of rust on two of the journals but from the pictures he sent me I think it'll polish out. I may have also found a set of Jun cam gears like the ones I've been wanting to buy.

Looks good Daniel Quite a lot of work there, but it looks like you have it figured out.

Well it's no RB26 but at least there's a motor back in the hole. Need to spend a bit of time hooking the wiring back up etc but I should have it running over the next couple of days.

Got this thing started tonight, couple of little hickups, hooked up the fuel lines backwards by mistake, an 044 does not sound good being dead headed. Also forgot to reset the timing in the Link before I tried to start it, had some sweet blue flames coming out of the turbo hah.

Need to get a couple more silicons to redo the intercooler piping and get another flange for my BOV to weld on to the new piping, I'm going to run 2.5" on this motor instead of the 3" stuff I was running on the 26 as it's pretty much all different anyway.

It sounded pretty good running but only ran for maybe 20 or 30 seconds, I didn't change any of the other settings in the Link so it's probably running a bit lean. I removed all the factory idle control stuff and managed to connect up the Bosch stepper motor thing I was running on the 26 so hopefully it'll idle okay once the intercooler piping is all sorted.