New Zealand Datsun Club

Bartman wrote:Are you going to freshen this engine up, or is it just going to be a slapper? (I vote forgies, and a nitto oil pump) If you need oil restrictors, I should be able to arrange some for you. (Unless you know someone else with a lathe, there isn't much to them)

Depends how rich I am in 6 months, at a minimum it'll be a fancy oil pump and forgies, if I've got the cash I'll get some fancy rods too but that depends on what I do with the head as well, I'd like to get some cams and Jun cam gears, it starts to add up pretty quickly. If I can find another crank and fix the 26 I should be able to sell that complete (minus the turbo) and that should pay for most of the RB30 build and buying another 26 head.

The block needs to be drilled and tapped for the 26 head studs as they are 12mm from memory when all the other RBs are 11mm (corrected) but that's really the only mod to that, other than moving the tensioner.

Very nice!
is your old crank beyond repair?

Not completely, but the guy that has it told Zac the other day "it can be fixed but it'll never be good" so that's pretty much it! The journals can be polished which is cheap but the snout needs to be welded and machined back to size which is going to be $$$. I should have kept bidding on that R33 crank.

DJZ wrote:
The block needs to be drilled and tapped for the 26 head studs as they are 12mm from memory when all the other RBs are 10mm but that's really the only mod to that, other than moving the tensioner.

The rb30 head bolts are m11x1.5 Same as all rb's except 26. You can run rb20/25 arp studs if your worried. robbie ward runs stock head bolts at crazy power levels

fletch wrote:

DJZ wrote:
The block needs to be drilled and tapped for the 26 head studs as they are 12mm from memory when all the other RBs are 10mm but that's really the only mod to that, other than moving the tensioner.

The rb30 head bolts are m11x1.5 Same as all rb's except 26. You can run rb20/25 arp studs if your worried. robbie ward runs stock head bolts at crazy power levels

I am worried, that's why I'll have the block drilled and tapped for RB26 ARP studs. I can't really see having 11mm bolts in 12mm clearance holes in the head being a good idea.

DJZ wrote:

fletch wrote:

DJZ wrote:
The block needs to be drilled and tapped for the 26 head studs as they are 12mm from memory when all the other RBs are 10mm but that's really the only mod to that, other than moving the tensioner.

The rb30 head bolts are m11x1.5 Same as all rb's except 26. You can run rb20/25 arp studs if your worried. robbie ward runs stock head bolts at crazy power levels

I am worried, that's why I'll have the block drilled and tapped for RB26 ARP studs. I can't really see having 11mm bolts in 12mm clearance holes in the head being a good idea.

The head locates on the 2 dowels that go in 2 of the head bolt holes. plus 3 corners of the head have 8mm bolts.
i think you only have to use the 26 washers on the 20/25 bolts.
The rb26 bolts are not tight in the holes through the head either, the oil feeds to the head run up around 2 of the bolts.

If you do get them re-tapped, im pretty sure you dont need to drill the holes out, just run a tap in and out a few times and clean out the crap as your going


-Just remembered this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums ... lp-please/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
some information. opinion seems 50/50

Got the cam belt drive gear off the crank, had to drill and tap two holes in it and use a puller but it came off really nicely, the crank snout looks perfect so hopefully the rest of it is just as good! Will have to replace the gear but that's okay, I'm not sure why Nissan didn't put anything in/on them to get them off easily and you either root the oil pump or the cam belt guide washer behind it if you try and lever them off. Both the guide washers are perfect which is good, means I don't have to buy more!

Bought the last silicon joiner for the intercooler piping I need, will probably turn up tomorrow but I'm away for the weekend so won't get to test drive it till the weekend after. Need to get some piping for the turbo inlet and an air filter still.

I've slowly been working on this thing, brought a new wastegate actuator and bracket from DSR, as much as I hate them it was $18 and looks like it'll work okay with some slight modifications. The way I'm going to mount it means I have to have the right angle outlet at the top which makes it very difficult to fit the air filter in, I might have to put it directly on the front of the turbo.



Also bought another almost complete RB26 which I'll be picking up on Thursday, it's got no turbos, exhaust manifolds or sump/diff and apparently it's run a bearing but hopefully the crank is salvageable. Have to decide what to do with the good bits on the other motor, whether I keep the head and head studs or just sell it as is after replacing the crank.

Love your work, keep at it dude your progress put me to shame.

Go the big block, you dont need all those rev's to make the same hp so oil pump wont be working as hard.
Never be as cool as a rb26 mind you

Started pulling the new 26 apart today and it doesn't actually look that bad so far. It was well, well overdue for a cam belt change and I'm pretty lucky the bearing crapped out before the cam belt broke! The grease seal had actually fallen out of the tensioner, it would have been extremely noisy when the motor was running. Some of the cracks in the belt are about ½ way through and it feels really stiff/brittle.





Number 6 big end bearing is the one that had crapped out, the bearing on the right is one of the other ones, see how wide the rooted one is? It's been beaten flat by the crank.



Crank doesn't look too bad, once I get it all the way out I'll be able to have a better look at it.



The main bearings were all worn but don't look too bad overall.



This is the most annoying thing I've found about RBs so far, there is pretty much no way of getting the cam belt drive gear off without rooting something, the oil pump, the gear itself or the cam belt guide behind it.



This pile is mostly the bits and pieces I got with the motor, there's a full loom, the motor actually had the exhaust manifolds which I wasn't expecting, all the idle control stuff is there.