New Zealand Datsun Club

wheel_rx wrote:Have you done much more on mounting the motor and box?

Nah mate, just been working on polishing and painting the wheels, and trying to re-make the bonnet lately.
Ill be using this guys thread as a sort of a guide when i do get on to mounting the motor http://community.ratsun.net/topic/793-d ... e__st__200" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ive decided im going to attempt to reposition the shifter further forward, since i want to use my original bench seat. heres some pics of another one ive seen done. What i also like about this set up, besides shifting the gearstick into a more user friendly position, is you can also move the heights around on each shifter to multiply/reduce the throw. Which means you can make a super short shifter. just dont go overboard like i did when i made the shifter for my van, as you cant possibly get from 2nd to 3rd without selecting 1st again and so on haha

521 Mgee wrote:Hey cheers for that, thats a great idea swapping the chassie over i might just try that, now im on the look out for a wrecked 720.

might be able to help you out with a 720 chassis Budd if you still plan to use 1 that is, how soon were you wanting it

R30 Guru wrote:

521 Mgee wrote:Hey cheers for that, thats a great idea swapping the chassie over i might just try that, now im on the look out for a wrecked 720.

might be able to help you out with a 720 chassis Budd if you still plan to use 1 that is, how soon were you wanting it

Hey mate, thanks for the offer, at this stage im going to stick to the original chassis, however ill message you if I decide to modernise in the future.
Cheers

R30 Guru wrote:Excellent wee project you've got there Budd , shame that the last owners couldn't look after it properly just thought I'd add that I have New kingpin kits for these utes if you decide to keep the original front end in situ, am looking for a 720 myself to ad to my collection.

Hey mate, have you still got these kingpin re-build kits available? if so im keen to purchase some. thanks

So the motor is finally in.

Made up some mounts and now its sitting nice and low in the engine bay, right up against the firewall.
Currently im making a new mount to fit the alternator to the other side of the engine so that it doesn't hit the steering box.

Also ill need to make up a new steering arm that sits on the bottom of the two idlers, to clear the sump. And ill probably have to take a small scallop out of the sump too

I remember reading on here a while back that someone was selling steering box re-build kits, or maybe just the bearings. Does anyone know anything about this?

Heres the latest pics

love your work, keep the pics coming bud

PG Hydraulics in Auckland do steering box rebuilds

Have you done your drag link yet?
Do you have any pictures of it?

rob.121 wrote:PG Hydraulics in Auckland do steering box rebuilds

Cheers, i gave them a call today but I dont think they stock re-build kits for such an old car, so they would need to machine all the bearing surfaces and make up collars etc to make it all work, which could cost any where from 300-800 for a re-build. Which is about what i paid for the ute haha.

I do remember someone on here mentioning that they were putting an order through for some new bearings etc from japan, i might just have to search the archives

On other news, ive mounted the alternator on the opposite side, and im trying to re-build the front of the guards now.

Does anyone know of some awesome panel beaters in Auckland? or does anyone know how to heat shrink panels? I had a go at the bottom corners of both the front guards with the shrinker stretcher at work, as they were slightly bulging after i welded in the repairs. I didnt really know what i was doing and now they are warped and buckled dam i wish i didnt muck with them!!!

Bartman wrote:Have you done your drag link yet?
Do you have any pictures of it?

Gday, no i havent completed my drag link yet, i didn't know that arm was called a drag link by the way haha, now i do.
I was thinking id use some much larger shanked tie rod ends, and machine a new taper in to the other side of the idlers. Then use a length of rod with some threads cut on to it, and it should be gravy! thats my plan any way. Ive seen some people drill out the idlers and use a close tolerance bolt through a couple of rose joints, hanging of the end of some rod, which could work. However i reckon that a taper would be a lot stronger and rigid. Not too sure what the cert guy would accept also.

When i do get around to making one ill definitely post some pics up