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Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 12:38 pm
by LittleBruise
Results are in, did a dry and wet test. I'm counting cylinder 1 as being the closest one to the front.
Dry:
1. 135
2. 145
3. 125
4. 125
5. 165
6. Doesn't screw in properly as someone has stripped the head but got a reading of 120, won't be accurate though.
Wet:
1. 155
2. 195
3. 150
4. 155
5. 180
6. Didn't attempt
Have noticed that 6 hisses from air escaping out around the spark plug as it doesn't screw in properly.
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 12:51 pm
by DJZ
I have a spark plug thread chaser if you want to try it, I've used it once on a L series with the head on and it worked okay.
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 5:29 pm
by LittleBruise
Ok I got a loan from the bank and it's finally time to get this lady sorted! I've been so useless
I'm going to make a list tonight of everything I need to do and if anybody can help with names of trusted people or places to get parts that would be amazing!
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 7:24 pm
by Bartman
Awesome!
No matter what, make sure your car is still on the road at Labour weekend for the 10th anniversary Akaroa cruise!
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 9:49 pm
by LittleBruise
Ok things to be done, recommendations appreciated!
- minor rust work
- panel and paint
- new extractors
- new radiator
- potential engine rebuild, she ain't running anymore
- new wheels
And further down the line
- new rubbers
- new carpets
- re-chromed
Will definitely be added to with things I've forgotten or new things I discover!
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 9:39 pm
by Bartman
Minor rust work, talk to 2doors.
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 10:31 pm
by LittleBruise
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 6:46 am
by 2 doors
Great stuff, keep it up.
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:21 pm
by Bartman
That is very minor rust for one of these beasts!
Re: Laura's 240C
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 11:22 pm
by brocky41
Make sure you remove the guards completely, they rust on top of the sill area where they attach.
Also fill the sills with lots of fish oil or cavity wax. They tend to get a rust hole in the top of that sill, then fill with water, driving moves the water around and then the whole sill rusts from the inside out. Id recommend stripper wheeling the entire sill on both sides of the car, to make sure theres nothing hidden.
Heres a few pics of the ones ive had in the past - dont let it scare you as these were BAD.
As bart says you have a relatively rust free, good one to start with by the look.
Great work so far