New Zealand Datsun Club

Nick wrote:Thanks Kitch and tlsunny. I think getting a new one would be the best idea as chances are any 2nd hand ones are almost flogged out.

Oh sweet, thanks for that Beaver. I've already tried the mount shop, they said they won't have any till August. I'll give them another try for a Silvia one as it looks like the only difference is two extra bolts, else I'll see if Scott can get them.

I've now got the gearbox in and shouldn't need to touch the clutch fork. With the cable in and adjusted it brings it right forward with plenty of clearance. Also I've drawn up the crossmember so I just need to get it cut out. I was thinking 8mm plate should be strong enough. Here's the design.

Hey mate, what are the chances you have the pdf file of this still and would I be able to have a copy? No point in re inventing the wheel if it has already been done. Will need one for my car.

The proper way Hayden is to relocate the mounts on the floorpan. Makes it WOF proof. (Not that your wof guy gives a shit.....)

Sure thing Hayden, it is for car that was originally an auto though, so the mount locations are different to a manual car. I'm happy to send it through though if you pm your email address.

On a side note I really should update this thread!

It's well past time that I updated this thread. Over the past few months I've upgraded and improved quite a few things with this car. There was quite a few things smaller things that annoyed me which I've now solved.

One of the first things I did was buy a complete lock set of EBay as my old ones were flogged. They were a great fit and seem to be fairly well made. The only difference from the originals is that the ignition mounts onto the steering column so I now have a steering lock Next up was a choke cable. I got one made up and attached to the original knob. Still not happy with how the cable runs through the engine bay so might change that up

Ive also relocated the fuel pump from the firewall to back underneath the car and installed a fuel pressure regulator and gauge in the engine bay

Replaced the leaking heater core with 2nd hand one from Bart

Shorten spare driveshaft, current one is off centre where it was shortened which is causing a vibration

Upgraded headlights to Raybrig H4 and rewired and deloomed entire engine bay also installed headlight relays Rebuilt spare diff, blasted and powder coated the housing, installed new wheel bearings, serviced the brakes. Installed all new urethane bushes except for the front leaf Spring mount to chassis bushes

Welded up and cut new gearbox tunnel shifter hole. Originally the car was an auto so it had a larger square hole opposed to the standard manual round hole Installed new front wheel bearings. Old ones did seem to bad but I managed to get them for a decent price. When I took of the dust caps there was no split pins on either side to hold the wheel bearings on!!!

Completed an S13 front brake conversion. Due to the offset of my wheels the fronts were originally running a 15mm spacer so the calliper would clear the inside spoke face. I now have the conversion complete but I'm still running 5mm spacers in order to get clearance between the calliper and the inside of the rim spokes. To get the callipers to fit I did have to do some grinding on the callipers and I had to make a custom bracket to get them to sit much more closer to the hub.

Pictures coming soon!