New Zealand Datsun Club

Went into North Shore Steel today with this as my rough list to start building the intake/injection system.

3" tube x 600mm for plenum
3mm plate 85mm wide 500mm for end plates/general
8mm thick plate 300mm manifold
5mm plate 85mm wide bolt in end plate
35mm I/D for intake runners
15mm I/D for injectors
3/4inch (19mm) square tube for fuel rail
3/4inch (19mm) for injector fuel rail boss


Came out with a rough variation of the above.

Will get started on that soon.

Also got my welder fixed a couple of days ago - had just crapped out on me, so I will start practicing my welding a bit before attempting any real work. It has been a while...

Good on you for giving this a go mate!

agree, its awesome when you see your own handy work come together. looking forward to pics

Yeah, will get a few more pics together when I have something more to show. Was just practising with the mig.... fair to say I need to re-learn again.

Anybody have any ideas about lengthening the driveshaft, or if a longer one for A series gearbox spline to H165 diff flange exists?

I saw a picture at datsun1200.com of a spacer block which sat on the pinion flange, to compensate for too short of a tail shaft. Having one made might cost as much as having a longer shaft made though.

Bartman wrote:I saw a picture at datsun1200.com of a spacer block which sat on the pinion flange, to compensate for too short of a tail shaft. Having one made might cost as much as having a longer shaft made though.

Thanks man, will try to dig it out if I live long enough

May have a case of death by wife. I just seem so good at winning auctions lately....

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =275716268" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

tell here its essential equipment to get the car going, so you can take her out for a nice dinner somewhere

Right, been a while so figured I should update.

Arrival of the second child has meant a few more "in house" duties have been in order so a little less garage time to be had. As such some of the progress has been in the form of acqusitions - bits or tools to speed up the progress, as opposed to any actual work

Firstly A15 with 60a is sitting in the card mocked up. I have moved it forward a bit further then I originally intended to allow clearence of hydraulic clutch, clearence of rocket cover without notching, alignment of new gearbox crossmember and better positioning of engine mounts (less canterlever). Disadvantages to it sitting further forward are sump modifications now will be major and weight is further forward - however still a lot less forward then factory setup. Also the B310 manual driveshaft is far too short so it looks like I will need a custom job.

Pics for voyeurs:

Engine setup Welding mounts Mounts are using RX7 mounts. Got them for $1.50 on trademe but felt bad so paid more. The reason I am using them is they are easily replaceble later with aftermarket items. I am still setting up the mounts. I am currently hanging them off the engine and tacking them up. They will all come out to be welded properly before going back in to be welded to the cross member. The previous mounts are still on the car - currently assisting with centering the crank.

Drivers side mount Passenger side mount I have made a new gearbox cross member and essentially lined the engine and gearbox up with that
Cross member with Zinc it: Cross member painted with Black Zinc it and Nolathane from a Hyuandi 4x4 (needed a fair bit of trimming to fit). The Zinc It really wasn't curing properly so I ended up with my wifes hairdryer in the garage for an hour. I now believe a hair dryer is an essential garage tool. The cross member is soaked with Fish oil on the inside to stop it corroding inside out This is the shifter position and no, I didn't hack the crap out of the tunnel - I was lucky enough to find it that way.... Now on to the purchases

Got a set of flanges cut by the "One stop Cutting shop" in Silverdale. Cost $120 for 12mm mild steel. It uses the readily available A series CAD file so thanks to the dude who was good enough to provide that to everyone. It fits perfectly. Bought a whole lot of 38mm mild steel bends for extractors and intake manifold. I did buy a set of extractors but everything off the shelf seems to be far to big for the 410 engine bay so I am having to make my own. I also found that a gentle squeeze of some 38mm pipe in the vice will make an almost perfect oval for the A series. Spent about $250 on pipe so far from Woolf Mufflers in Auckland but it should be enough for intake and exhaust manifolds, plus exhaust and intake plenum. Picked up a drill press and cut off saw for cheap which have proven very handy Hit the max images ....

$40 cut off saw Some new air tools to make life easier Also got a cheap BOV and Wastegate for my sc12 Super Charger Setup. The wastegate comes with a 3.6psi spring which is perfect for my application. The only other items that may be of interest are some A series heads my brother had, which I swapped a near new (15,000km's Toyota) 7afe for so he could put a 1.8l turbo in his trueno. They are both meant to be extensively modified Reg Cook items. The top one is meant to be an A12 GX head and the bottom one an oval port A15.
So next things are
1) Finish the engine mounts
2) Setup the supercharger - I am looking to mount this were the Alternator usually goes on a modern A15 and put the alternator where it use to be on the older A12's. This really comes down to the lack of space in the engine bay once the intake manifold and custom headers are done. Anybody got any reasons this is a bad idea?
3) Intake Manifold setup and BOV/Wastegate mounted.
4) Brake setup for H165 - as per another thread I posted, I am starting to track down the right parts.

So a bit to keep busy with.

BTW this is a thread with my brothers trueno that has taken a fair bit of my time lately due to the thrashing it had taken between the time he built it and bought it back...

http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=79672" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;