New Zealand Datsun Club

Apart from the one journal the crank looks really good, I'll talk to the guys at MPL some time this week and see what they think, I'd like to keep them standard size so hopefully it can either be polished out or I'd like to get it welded and ground back to standard size if cost isn't prohibitive. It's an R32 motor so it has the narrow oil pump drive.





This is how the oil pump came off the motor and is probably one of the main contributing factors to the damage. It's pretty common on the 26s, there were only 2 screws that I couldn't undo with just a screwdriver, I took the pump apart and it looks okay inside.

Crank is going to need to be ground, possibly both the big ends and mains depending on whether it's bent or not. I'm bidding on an R33 crank that finishes tomorrow so will hold off till then to make a decision but if the crank needs to be ground and I can get this other one for a reasonable price it's probably not worth reassembling the 2nd motor and I'll just use the head etc to build the 30.

Discovered the injectors that came with the new 26 are actually 550cc RX7 injectors which is a good score. For some reason the motor looks extremely clean in the inlet ports and also the water holes, not sure why?

I finished the downpipe for the RB20, it's pretty ugly as it steps up from 2.5 to 3" and is pretty close to the firewall and gearbox but it works. This motor seems a lot quieter than the 26 was even though it's running through the same exhaust from after the downpipe. I need to go down to work at some stage and cut a 56mm diameter circle to block off the wastegate pipe in the exhaust.

Also need to remove the wideband from the DR and fit it to the Z so I can try and get it driveable, I want to take it down to work and make up the air filter pipe and plumb up the rest of the PCV system.

I think the 20 will be a bit of fun for a while till I've sold the original 26 and got all the bits together to build the 30. I keep thinking of more and more things I should do while I'm building it but have to reign myself in at some stage.

R33 crank got too expensive so I'll have this other one fixed and a crank collar fitted. Took the Z for it's maiden voyage with the new motor today, seems to be running okay, I didn't really get into boost and the motor has no air filter at all at the moment so only took it round the block twice. Spent ages mucking around with the idle speed and trying to get it not to stall after being revved, had to wind the throttle stop screw out a couple of turns. Did an extremely temporary job of fitting the wideband, it seems to be running pretty close to what it should be at idle and while driving with no boost, possibly a little on the rich side.





I loosened off the cam belt just a little as it felt a bit tight after running the motor a little bit. I think I'm going to fit the RB26 top timing cover too, I tried it and I think it looks alright so once the 30 is in the car it might end up with the ribbed rocker covers and a 26 top cover. It looks nicer than the original one and doesn't have the Osaka sticker on it.

Bought a cheapie air filter today, it only needs to last 6 months, the quality doesn't actually look that bad and it's a sweet blue colour! Finished off the inlet piping, welded on some tube for the PCV and also the idle control.





Fitted the 26 front cover, the backing plates are actually a slightly different shape, it still bolts up but looks a little bit funny at the back, it was too big a job to change the backing plates over (requiring removal of both cam gears) so it can stay like that. This is what I want the new motor to look like but the rocker covers and front cover with either be wrinkle black or powder coated.



So the engine bay is pretty much done, there's a little bit of tidying up to do but it's 99% there. I'll have to get it booked in for tuning early next year. For some reason the turbo sounds really loud now where it didn't use to on the FJ, not sure what's going on there, hopefully it's not rooted.

Connected up this vacuum switch yesterday to control the butterflies in the intake, the NICS motors have a similar system to Toyota TVIS where they have two different length runners, most people just rip them out but I thought I'd hook them up, it's not going to be a big power motor this one. Because the switch draws low current I can switch it straight off the Link!

Bought yet another crank today, this one is a winner though, R33 so it has the wide oil pump drive, came out of a running motor that bent valves so no damage to the crank! A quick polish and it'll be good to go.



I've been having 2nd thoughts about building the RB30 and putting it in this, I'm now leaning towards fixing the 26 and fitting a decent clutch and oil pump then getting it retuned and just carry on like that. I have been thinking about what to do with the other 2 seater now that I don't have an L series for it, I got offered a complete L20ET for pretty much free so that is one possibility as it's already certed for an L20 turbo or the other is building a high compression RB26/30 with the bits I've got and running it on carbs or with trumpets on the standard individual throttle bodies, would be pretty cool but it sounds like they don't make much power N/A without heaps of work, something to think about though as I've got most of the bits I'd need.

For the weight, expense, and hassle of going N/A, forced is your only option IMO.

Lame. Power isn't everything. Only so fast you can go on the road.

N/A so much cooler

torqued wrote:Lame. Power isn't everything. Only so fast you can go on the road.

N/A so much cooler

+1

Yeah, I've got two turbo cars already and it would be kind of fun to build an N/A motor, the only real expense would either be a set of carbs or a computer which will both probably cost about the same amount. I know it won't make much power but I'm not planning on keeping the 2nd 2 seater for long after it's going, unless I really really like it