The power goes from your key through the tacho loop then on to the coil.
The tacho loop can be unplugged when you pull you're dash out....hence breaking the ign power feed
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Kitchs 1200 Coupe - road legal!
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
1969 SSS Nissan Bluebird coupe
1970 Datsun 1600 - CA18DET - Sold!
1970 Datsun 1600 - CA18DET - Sold!
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
Just spent an hour on the car.
Thanks for your advise guys about the tacho signal, disrupting my ignition power feed to the coil.
Once I hooked up my tacho away she went. So that is one less problem.
Had a scary moment once it was up and running though, as my fuel rail
slipped on the injector, breaking the seal on #1, and spraying fuel everywhere!, cut ignition, grabbed a rag
and fire extinguisher in under 3 seconds, to prevent a complete disaster.....
I promised myself I will not start it again, until the cable tie mount system on my fuel rail, has been replaced
with proper brackets!!! (just the usual impatience).
I hooked up the new wasted spark coil, and spun the toothed wheel so I had it firing on 10° advance, but it
wouldnt run and backfired and carried on, so have to do some work on my configuration, I also must test the
#2 & #3 coil firing as well, as only tested the #1 coil circuit.
Video here....
http://youtu.be/H5BFaMNnlio" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also, I got back all my brake & suspension links etc which hadnt been painted earlier in the week.
They look sweet. the guys used some fancy paint type, which almost looks like a gloss powder coat
Thanks for your advise guys about the tacho signal, disrupting my ignition power feed to the coil.
Once I hooked up my tacho away she went. So that is one less problem.
Had a scary moment once it was up and running though, as my fuel rail
slipped on the injector, breaking the seal on #1, and spraying fuel everywhere!, cut ignition, grabbed a rag
and fire extinguisher in under 3 seconds, to prevent a complete disaster.....
I promised myself I will not start it again, until the cable tie mount system on my fuel rail, has been replaced
with proper brackets!!! (just the usual impatience).
I hooked up the new wasted spark coil, and spun the toothed wheel so I had it firing on 10° advance, but it
wouldnt run and backfired and carried on, so have to do some work on my configuration, I also must test the
#2 & #3 coil firing as well, as only tested the #1 coil circuit.
Video here....
http://youtu.be/H5BFaMNnlio" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also, I got back all my brake & suspension links etc which hadnt been painted earlier in the week.
They look sweet. the guys used some fancy paint type, which almost looks like a gloss powder coat
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
awesome you got her running, good old datsun and their positive fed tacho's, still need to get a msd tach signal converter for mine as i currently have no tacho due to msd. do you intend to run factory tacho?
trigger wheels are a bit uncharted for me, i just use a optical dizzy and msd. though i still had immense fun timing up my setup. if the trigger wheel runs the injection fine i would say start at using the static timing variable and making sure its defiantly firing where it should be as it took me a few go's to get this bit right.
trigger wheels are a bit uncharted for me, i just use a optical dizzy and msd. though i still had immense fun timing up my setup. if the trigger wheel runs the injection fine i would say start at using the static timing variable and making sure its defiantly firing where it should be as it took me a few go's to get this bit right.
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
fuel is just running on TPS signal & I have MAP too. VR signal doesnt run fuel, but
will run my ignition - I am confident it is just about there, just need to suss
out a few parrameters and test second coil bank for spark.
Tacho will have to run off the MS2 when the OEM coil and associated wiring get
discarded in a month or so (when motor comes out for last time for paintwork)
I have an email somewhere of how to "massage" my new tacho output signal
to work properly on the factory tacho.
will run my ignition - I am confident it is just about there, just need to suss
out a few parrameters and test second coil bank for spark.
Tacho will have to run off the MS2 when the OEM coil and associated wiring get
discarded in a month or so (when motor comes out for last time for paintwork)
I have an email somewhere of how to "massage" my new tacho output signal
to work properly on the factory tacho.
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
Good work! i've been following this thread for a while now!
I see you know how to ''massage" your megasquirt tach output for the coupe tach? If you could send me the into needed I would be super stoked! cheers dude!
I see you know how to ''massage" your megasquirt tach output for the coupe tach? If you could send me the into needed I would be super stoked! cheers dude!
1976 NA Lancer
1980 Starlet Bugeye (60,000 genuin k's)
1979 Starlet Bugeye
1974 ke25 coupe
1972 1200 coupe z18et
1980 Starlet Bugeye (60,000 genuin k's)
1979 Starlet Bugeye
1974 ke25 coupe
1972 1200 coupe z18et
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
Was great to catch up today and see the lil coupe in person! Keep up the hard work matey!
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
I have had a bit of an epiphany....
I think I just clicked as to why I have not managed to secure any form of stable idle....
I have no idle control cicuit to my throttle body / manifold setup, and throttle closed stops are set to fully closed. so as such when I close throttle completely, this of course chokes out air flow completely to the engine...
Anyone have some advice of what I should do? I guess I could just set the butterflies to leave a slight opening at closed position. As I have no real cold start setup, then I will be relying on temp signal to a point to help with air / fuel mix whilst under normal operating temp (I am not overly worried if I have to blip throttle to warm as won't hold a cold idle as its not a daily driver).
I had not planned nor setup my ECU to handle cold start valve setup, or the periphery equipment to undertake anyway.
I guess I need to surf net a bit to see what other guys have done with custom manifold on 4AGE ITB's
Any ideas / advice, post up fellas - its all new to me!
I think I just clicked as to why I have not managed to secure any form of stable idle....
I have no idle control cicuit to my throttle body / manifold setup, and throttle closed stops are set to fully closed. so as such when I close throttle completely, this of course chokes out air flow completely to the engine...
Anyone have some advice of what I should do? I guess I could just set the butterflies to leave a slight opening at closed position. As I have no real cold start setup, then I will be relying on temp signal to a point to help with air / fuel mix whilst under normal operating temp (I am not overly worried if I have to blip throttle to warm as won't hold a cold idle as its not a daily driver).
I had not planned nor setup my ECU to handle cold start valve setup, or the periphery equipment to undertake anyway.
I guess I need to surf net a bit to see what other guys have done with custom manifold on 4AGE ITB's
Any ideas / advice, post up fellas - its all new to me!
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
The only way to help your idle, would be add you said, to crack the throttle valve open a bit.......or.......install a aac valve or similar from another Nissan engine. Basically it's a valve that opens and closes via a control from the ecu (you might be able to set it up for manual control?)
Simply put it's a bypass valve that allows air past the throttle whilst it's closed.
You could also install a cold start valve. They operate simply via a power signal. When it gets power, it's warms a wax inside the valve that closes off the valve.
So initially, the valve is open, and upon power signal it begins to close as the wax warms up
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Simply put it's a bypass valve that allows air past the throttle whilst it's closed.
You could also install a cold start valve. They operate simply via a power signal. When it gets power, it's warms a wax inside the valve that closes off the valve.
So initially, the valve is open, and upon power signal it begins to close as the wax warms up
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
1969 SSS Nissan Bluebird coupe
1970 Datsun 1600 - CA18DET - Sold!
1970 Datsun 1600 - CA18DET - Sold!
- Kitch
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
Thanks Dan
Upon having a further look at my throttle bodies, I have the capabilitites to adjust out the idle air supply a bit.
it's only a small bypass, but better than nothing. I wonder if I can port it out? its only like a wee 2mm hole in the inlet side of the body, that is reintroduced at the flange side (barely visible on photo below)
The 4AGE quad throttle ISCV circuit runs off a small sub manifold on the inlet manifold, which must draw air from the back of the plenum I assume, and direct additional air adjacent to injection point on the manifold. these are reasonable sized holes (perhaps 6mm or so)
I just found this , which seems to be a good valid read.....
http://www.mr2.com/forums/beams-owners- ... ntrol.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This seems to confirm if I can handle a rough idle in cold / varying conditions then you can just mechanically set the butterflies to bleed air to maintain idle.
Upon having a further look at my throttle bodies, I have the capabilitites to adjust out the idle air supply a bit.
it's only a small bypass, but better than nothing. I wonder if I can port it out? its only like a wee 2mm hole in the inlet side of the body, that is reintroduced at the flange side (barely visible on photo below)
The 4AGE quad throttle ISCV circuit runs off a small sub manifold on the inlet manifold, which must draw air from the back of the plenum I assume, and direct additional air adjacent to injection point on the manifold. these are reasonable sized holes (perhaps 6mm or so)
I just found this , which seems to be a good valid read.....
http://www.mr2.com/forums/beams-owners- ... ntrol.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This seems to confirm if I can handle a rough idle in cold / varying conditions then you can just mechanically set the butterflies to bleed air to maintain idle.
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Re: Kitchs 1200 Coupe - "Houston.... we have lift off..."
I know close to nothing about ITB's, but one thing that may be pertinent to your tuning, is having all the butterflies perfectly syncronised. IE, all closing shut at exactly the same time, and all being at the exact same amount of opening at any given part of your throttle.
I don't know what if any adjustment they have, but it's critical to smooth running and getting equal performance from each cylinder to have them set up right. With carbs, there's an airflow tool that can be used to measure the flow into each cylinder, so thjat they can all be adjusted to be axactly the same.
Thats all kinda off topic to your current lines of enquiry. But it just sprang into my head when I was gazing longingly at the above pic of yout ITB.
I don't know what if any adjustment they have, but it's critical to smooth running and getting equal performance from each cylinder to have them set up right. With carbs, there's an airflow tool that can be used to measure the flow into each cylinder, so thjat they can all be adjusted to be axactly the same.
Thats all kinda off topic to your current lines of enquiry. But it just sprang into my head when I was gazing longingly at the above pic of yout ITB.
They don't call me the man with the rubber arm for nothing you know.............