New Zealand Datsun Club

Yeah if rear settles itll look perfect!

5/16ths will be ample for your needs, have seen cars at work at well into the 300kws at the wheels on standard 5/16ths fuel line. I would bother uprating it too 3/8. It will be expensive and cunty

broke wrote:

z181200 wrote:doesnt need more slam. wash your mouth out. at least get rid of that muscle car rake

bosozoku-car-meeting-team-madonna-team-up-iwamizawa.jpg

Really need to get stuck into this fuel line

Re-routing it might be the go, remove some of those sharp-as bends. I doubt you will ever get that 3/8" bundy to perform the amazing feats it would need to to follow the path of that 5/16" stuff. Alternatively, just use the original 5/16" size tubing, it's good enough for most factory turbo jappas.

Yeah I'll be re-routing it for sure. I can get some straight length stainless 5/16'' od at not too bad a price from a mate, that factory line I gave you John is only 1/4'' well I think it is anyway. If it is 5/16'' that would be perfect to use as the return line then just bend up a new feed line. Done!

Sweet, there are a few things to be considered with stainless though. You'll want to retain your rubber fuel line on it somehow, your options are to single flare a bubble into it or double flare it and fit a tube nut so that you can screw a male hose barb on it (hard work on stainless), braze a hose barb on (also a $#%#, hated brazing Brocks SS surge tank), TIG weld a fitting on ($$$) or use a nut and olive to then attach a barbed tail (also $$$ as the nut and olive need to be stainless too). Bending it will be a chore too.

Then you have to look at the wall thickness of the stainless tube, which will likely be thicker than bundy so that you get a smaller ID than with bundy.

If you used carbon steel tubing it could be bent a lot easier, it's easy to flare, braze and attach compression olives on to and can be bought already plated. The fittings are cheap too. This is the stuff that "acustx" is using on his 510.

Alternatively I think that trick alloy tubing could be another option, I've never used it but I've heard it's nice and easy to bend on relatively tight radii, obviously has good corrosion resistance and you can use those sexy looking blue anodised nuts and olives or plain old steel ones.

Not trying to be a know it all or anything, just wanting to make sure you're aware of all the options available! Of course the carbon steel stuff I can get you cheap too..

My mate reckons this stainless stuff is quite bendy, it's seamless if that makes a difference. Can't remember wall thickness but wasn't too thick. Eww blue and red anodised fittings. Black all the way. I'll have a think about it as I won't be able to buy anything for a wee while.

Another busy Sunday working on datsun's. Got my intercooler pipes back from welding and they are looking swish! Also have had my turbo dump pipe tidied up a bit and now I can use the bottom bolt hole, is a bit of a mission to fit have to use a stud for one hole cap screws for 2 and hex bolts for the rest oh well fits nicely have had a v band flange welded on too which fits up to a 3" to 2.5" reducer to fit up to the rest of the exhaust. The 2 bolt flange that bolts to the turbo for the intake has been modified too with a straight piece of pipe welded to the original item just need a 3" to 2.5" reducer to fit up to afm. Test fitted a HKS pod filter looks pretty bling bling should do the job just fine. Mounted oil catch can just need some hose and a fitting welded onto turbo intake. James modified the ali spacer that goes between the brake m/c and booster so my 7/8 cylinder fits up perfectly now.
To finish dump pipe for good I just need to get some heat wrap and she's done!
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Dump pipe is finished! Gave it a bit of a sand up then a lick of heat proof paint follwed by some black heat wrap. James and I installed it yesterday so that's another thing to tick off my list. Also got a 3"-2.5" reducer for the turbo intake to afm. Once I've got oil catch can and bov plumbed up I'll get two fittings welded to the intake pipe before finishing it off by anodising it satin black along with the rest of the I.c pipes . Stay tuned for next week's update Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Also now that the intake is sorted I can get Dan to finish off the AFM wiring and possibly fuel pump

Haha yeah will do Greg

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Radiator is back in for keeps! Have also sorted hoses with the help of James. Now you might laugh a little ok maybe a lot but hey! If it works it works. Pics say it all









Just need a steel adapter made from some pipe to join the flexi hoses to the other rad hoses. Next on the agenda is to get that fuel line DONE so I can start her up!