New Zealand Datsun Club

That dynamat looks sexual Kitch the old man is keen as now he wants it everywhere

LOL - yeah I got looking at various build threads over seas
(mainly car audio sites) and got keen!

It tidies it all up, and gives nice dust free surface for putting
some sound blocking closed cell foam on before carpet.

I did quite a bit of research online before starting this process,
for optimum performance, you are meant to use a 3 layer approach.

Layer 1 = CLD (Constrained Layer Damper)
Essentially this minimises the resonance in the panel steel
you can use an approach like I have, and cover everything
or alternatively use denser, heavier weighted "tiles" in specific
areas, if you go for this method, apparently you only need to
cover 25% of areas. Essentially you are building up mass in
your panels to make things sound more solid, and so if you
tap them they go "thunk" not "twang" if you know what I
mean.

Layer 2 = CCF (Closed Cell Foam)
This is the 'decoupler' layer and isolates the noise, which
can stop 'rattling' of panel and trim. this is also essential to
seperate Layer #1 & #3 to ensure isolation and ensure each
layer does its proper job. this can be done like under your
door cards and plastic trim etc, to stop all those annoying
noises and rattles. Last thing you want after spending 40K
restoring a car, is a car that makes as much noise as an
unrestored example! I will use that sticky backed foam
seal tape stuff around steel frames before I clip on my
interior panels & plastics etc. I intend geting some foam
from Skellerup or the likes to do this, its not that expensive
and comes in various grades & thicknesses, essentially its
the same foam that pool 'noodle' toys and bed rolls are
made out of (obviously they are different density / spec)

Layer 3 = MLC (Mass loaded vinyl layer)
This is the 'blocker' layer, and when used with the other
layers gives the best chance to reduce transmission of
road & engine noise. I have to do a bit more research here
but expect there is building industry products that should
do the trick here. This is heavy stuff, as it is about 4kg/m2.
You can get dual layer products that do the job of layer
#2 & #3, but I have only found product overseas, and its
too heavy to justify freight charges.

I applaude your approach to perfection at all cost, but be wary of drowning out the beautifull sound of quad throttles

Got the Gearbox custom mount installed:



Fitted up my new ARP Head Studs, GX Head Gasket, my new head
after some minor mod's for stud holes to suit my EFI manifold,
and even torqued down the head & fitted up rocker gear, and set
valve lash. I have a wee problem to overcome, that being the rocker
touch the rocker cover, due to the agressive cam lift and the amount
of planing the head has had. C/R will be 11:1 with this setup, so
will be making some sweet sounds on those ITB's in the not to
distant future!

Now that's a sexy engine bay! Is that block thingy in the corner a vacuum manifold setup?

Looking sweet, loving the build Kitch. ARP yes yes yes. Do the Studs come with one thinner like the bolts for the oil Gallery? Looking forward to the start up Vid, this will definitely be on the Southern Cruise Even if it is just popping to listen to it sing.

Yeah mate thats it, balances the individual ITB vacuum signals, so an averaged signal goes to the ECU MAP Sensor.

Few other non original engine bits you might see in the pic's, like the new Temp sensor on the water pipe, the VR sensor trigger wheel, and also on drivers side, there is a custom mount that is over the orginal dizzy position, this mounts the wasted spark coil pack, As I decided to reduce some clutter on the firewall and move to this position. as with no fuel pump or Dizzy now, there
was a big empty area. also given no battery up there either...

Man those new brake lines are so much tidier than my new brake lines. Its the attention to detail that makes this engine bay look sweet right now.

Cheers for that Ginge
I did all the brake lines & fuel lines myself, I just had the local brake shop do the special flared ends for them to seal effectively, as the hand tool I used did not really cut the mustard, and did not want to risk bad seals in a new engine bay!

They photograph OK, but in person they are not perfect, but hey, I did them myself, and had not done anything like that previously, so better not be too hard on myself! Also if you have not gathered from the 44 page thread and counting, I am a bit anal...

Vaughan, you have me worried. the 'oil' bolt, is the same diameter as the other ones, just longer. where it went into the block there is defiantely an oversize hole about a half inch deep, so think that that will pick up on the oil from the block, but I am now worried, the bottom of the head, did not have this oversize hole, obviously it "necks" down at the top where the top thread is. I wonder how I can check oil flow path before startup? I guess worse case scenario, it does not pump oil into the rocker gear, in which case, maybe I have to remove the ARP Stud, and fit the OEM "Waisted" bolt. But Surely this special stud in this location which was about 15mm longere than the other nine, has been designed correctly for the application???..... Had a wee search online, but could not find anyone who has had probs with ARP studs on the A14/A15 engine.

Sweet, Didn't want to cause stress, just interested, as have never fitted studs before and just interested, sounds like nothing to worry about if it has worked before and the stud is distinguished from the rest, great to see it progressing.