New Zealand Datsun Club

broke wrote:If that 95mm is from that bottom shock mount then I believe you do have a problem there, legality wise. But only 5mm worth of problem.

luke wrote: i realise that he cant cert atm

Interesting choice of words, did he say anything about whether he will be able to do certification again in the future?

well that sucks, sure wayne will know the ins and outs etc.

i only chatted to him briefly, didnt really ask about it, niccy said they are still fighting to get him certing happening again etc

I can now see where your issue is that we were talking about, if you are going to change the lowering blocks, this will fix your issue with the shock mount, as the lowering blocks are moving your diff further away from the bottom of your shock mount, the further up the diff goes the lower your shock mount will be to the ground.

its 100mm with no cert. Most likely will be able to cert it at that height as its very close to 100mm

over inflate the tyres

As a few of you now know, im heading down the twin cam route like many others have done, but with a mid 90s FWD PULSAR ENGINE.

i bought the engine and box setup off toby in tauranga,
think these engines put out roughly 105-115hp depending on which market it was for.
so specs are as follows to my knowledge as advertised..

60k ish ga16de engine minus ecu and efi setup.
A series 5 speed box
modified a15 flywheel and clutch
starter motor
alternator
crossmembers to bolt in to 1200
headers
remote oil filter mount and lines
alloy radiator

AND a flange for the inlet manifold. this allows me to make up something for the carbs or i can just go to a wreckers and perk an efi setup with loom.

some of the reasons i decided on this is its different, engines are worthless to most as its fwd, and parts are easy to source.

the engine bay is now empty except for brake lines, big thanks to brock for helping me get the engine and box out on thursday night you can tell the man has had plenty of practise. whole thing took him like 10min incl setup time and it was on the floor ready to be split. cheers man.

i will get wal when he has time to spray the engine bay in the silver of the body, and to remove battery tray etc. got slightly inspired by a viva at O.S. nats with an extremely empty engine bay, whoever went knows what im talking about. the guy had the same idea, find a fwd engine that nobody desires, that almost bolts up to a rwd gbox. adapter plate, and bingo. cheap running gear for a long time.

Sweet man. Look forward to seeing your new motor all mounted up!

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These GA16de engines are bullet proof. I had a couple mates and a brother own an N14 pulsar with them in it and they absolutely thrashed the arse out of them for 200,000 ams and they just worked perfect every time. Excellent choice for fuel economy too. We had an N15 with a GA15 in it and would get 700kms to a tank.

My opinion is that you should just go the EFI route with ECU. Would be super simple to setup and use and fuel efficient. Others will disagree though (those commie carb loving EFI haters out there! haha).

It depend what you're after Luke.
Twin 45's, with a pair of monster camshafts will be a hoot.
Factory style efi will carry a similar cost, but you'll enjoy stellar fuel economy and drivability.

ITB's!!!!!!!!

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Bartman wrote:It depend what you're after Luke.
Twin 45's, with a pair of monster camshafts will be a hoot.
Factory style efi will carry a similar cost, but you'll enjoy stellar fuel economy and drivability.

ECU, fuel pump, loom, manifolds would cost all of $200 max...... Twin 45's would cost a fortune....
Or am I missing something?