New Zealand Datsun Club

After doing a bit more research today I've decided not to use the N1 water pump, I don't think this motor needs it and the pump has a slotted bolt hole in it so it's interchangeable between the N1 and Neo motors but because of this when you fit them to normal RB26 blocks they leak. The fix is to either weld part of the hole up or fill it with silicone. From what I've read they are more for engines that are run at high RPM all the time (race engines) which this one won't be, and I've still got the pump from when I put the engine together last time so I'll just reuse that.

Found all the water pump bolts though, still haven't managed to find the oil pump ones. Didn't managed to get much else done today, fitted the heater hose fittings to the block and that was about it. Spun it over a couple of times, it turns over nice and freely.

Loving the Factory look with the Hulking big snail on the side.
Are you having a Bug carcher on the Bonnet, Letter Box Style? Surely you can't fit that and still close the Bonnet??

Finished off the wiring for the TPS and new coil loom today. Got a fitting to start doing the turbo oil return, need to get a flange to bolt on to the bottom of the turbo.

I think the 1mm headgasket that I've got might work which would be good, need to get the head back together so I can check the valve to piston clearance.

Got the rest of the head apart today and pulled all the stem seals off. Got a tee for the fuel pressure gauge and an in hex bung for the remote oil filter mount as the sensor wouldn't clear the male squared bung that was in there. Haven't managed to get much else done in the last week.

Been working on the engine dyno rig at work, it's almost ready to go, the engine on it is a GM/Vauxhall C20XE (I think) out of the Formula 3, once that's tuned I can start getting it ready for the RB.

Has it got a Coscast head?

gman wrote:Has it got a Coscast head?

Not sure, it might actually be an X20XEV, I'm not even sure where the two that we've got came from but from what I can tell they are stock blocks and heads, just with bolted on bits.

This is the car the other engine is in, it's a Dallara F305, we're trying to buy another one the same but Dallara don't have any new monocoques.

Under the 3rd ex port it will have Coscast and no frost plugs.

Got the engine on the dyno running at about 4:30 on Friday, so the guys should get it tuned next week so the dyno will be free after that.

Today I removed the original bonnet and test fitted the fibreglass bonnet. Removing a Z bonnet by yourself is an interesting task.

I haven't weighed either of them by the fibreglass one feels at least 50% lighter. The bonnet springs are actually pushing the bonnet open (hence the weight to hold it down) so I'm going to try removing one of the springs. It just touches on the front bumper but it isn't adjusted properly. The hinges are just touching a little bit so hopefully one it's adjusted that will clear, if not I'll have to remove a little bit of the fibreglass.







Mocked up the fuel rail and fuel pressure sensor, I'm not 100% sure I'm going to use that fuel rail, it came from Aliexpress and the quality is okay but it's made for 11mm oring injectors where the ones I've got are 10.5mm and it looks a little ugly.




Put the water pump on and started to put the cam belt drive bits on. I also removed the bumps from the exhaust ports on the head, need to find a couple of my sanding roll bits and pieces so I can finish it off, then take it down to work for another clean then reassemble it.

I love that you have so many five stud axles that you can youse them as weights? I remember taking the bonnet off mine the first time and the bumper half the Wight of the car.

gman wrote:I love that you have so many five stud axles that you can youse them as weights? I remember taking the bonnet off mine the first time and the bumper half the Wight of the car.

Yeah I've got a few sets but they're all worn so paperweights is pretty much all they are good for until I find somebody who wants to fix them.