New Zealand Datsun Club

I'll add, you need to set the length with the rear suspension at full droop. As the rear springs compress, they get longer. And the driveshaft moves away from the gearbox. So if you have a little bit of free clearance at full droop, then it'll never crash the driveshaft into the end of the box. I believe Kitch had issues with this when he slammed his B210?

luke wrote: ENGINE IN
GBOX IN
H165 IN
INTERIOR STRIPPED
BACK ON ALL 4 WHEELS

nick if you can thatd be fantastic. include attaching it to my can in your price. i have your acc details already just pm me a price.

as for the driveshaft it will have roughly 3mm of play according to my measurements. is this ok?

yea measured at full droop etc as car is back on the ground again now

if measured at full droop like bart said and you have 3mm of play in the spline it sounds about right. Would you agree Bart?
Ill fire you a text and we can work out a plan of attack.

I think three mm is a little bit too little.
But I'm no expert.

+3mm can easy turn to -3mm by the time the car relaxes, and the axle finds its natural 'home' position / ride height.

I would think more like 8-10mm is what you are after.

believe me -3mm does not work !!!.,.. (Yes Bart you are right the 210 came to a grinding halt half way up my driveway...)


and pics please Luke !!

8-10mm seems excessive.

im not even close to a novice in this area but i jumped up and down all over the rear end, pushed it forwards and backwards while turning the wheel to get a realistic ride hieght, THEN i measured. am i wrong in assuming that 90kg of abusive bouncing repeatedly equals the same as a nice drive through the eastern suburbs of chch? - plus a 120kg bloke for extra checking in rear.

surely this would come close to being an accurate measurement? no doubt there are much more sophisticated ways of peforming such tasks but i really doubt my coupe will be abused to the 90kg extent that cruelly ever. even over a mean bump at speed.

if im that far out can someone explain a simpler way of getting ride hieght/measuring driveshaft/etc so that i dont splash out big dollars for no gain

That sounds like compression, rather than droop.
When the weight of the car is on the wheels, the springs get longer, and the axle moves away from gearbox. As it does this, the driveshaft input yolk withdraws from the gearbox.
With the body on jack stands, and the axle hanging down with no weight on the wheels, the leaves shorten which brings the axle further forward. This will move the gearbox input yolk further into the rear of the box. If you have 3mm with weight on the wheels, with no weight on the wheels, you gonna have no free board, and in fact the leaves will be forcing the input hard into the gearbox.

Sorry luke I misread what you said I was thinking you meant 3mm at full droop so you would more than that at ride height

what about torque/cornering loads moving gearbox and rear end around a bit & axle tramp that that N/A GA16 is going to generate....

all mitigating factors that I think you should err on the side of caution with as far as your initial setup.

I am sure that the 210 (after I got the lowering blocks orientated right) had about 12-15mm clear from the back of gearbox seal housing to the shield ring thing on the drive shaft