New Zealand Datsun Club

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 255239.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Spotted those for you man, im keeping an eye out for when your hubs arrive at my work

I will bring em over when i get em

Already on my watchlist man bit expensive for the whole lot though, really need hubs + companion flanges + bearing spacers, the rest is scrap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75CZuL3usek" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zEICkSTT3g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Bit of inspiration.

Wonder what gearbox he's running in that racing video, looks like a dog leg box. He's pretty savage with the gear changes, I think if I tried that with mine there'd be a pile of gears on the road afterwards.

brocky41 wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75CZuL3usek

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zEICkSTT3g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Bit of inspiration.

some more inspirational FJ vids. these guys were legends...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D-JtvVv ... re=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbLG1SA6mcA

Yea they had straight cut dog leg boxes dude - i wouldnt try flatshiffingh yours haha

Decided to upgrade the fuel pump wiring today. Spent ages trying to figure out which of the original relays was the fuel pump one, had it narrowed down to 2 then I found this:



So I unplugged the relay, found the pin that is the switch +12, mounted another relay, connected it up to the battery, ran the wiring from the relay to the pump and yay, now my pump is really noisy - it must be getting a lot more juice that before. Only problem is I think it must be back feeding through the relay as the fuel pump will come on when I turn the key on with the immobiliser turned on, I think a diode should solve this.

This is the size of the original fuel pump wiring (the blue wire is positive) compared to the new wiring. You can see a hole has been drilled near the bung, so it's possibly had a non original fuel pump in it at some stage before? Can't see any other reason for drilling a hole in the floor there and sanding back the paint.

So when you only have one going car what's the obvious thing to do? Pull it apart!

I thought I'd give upgrading the alternator a go. I've had the old one of the L31 lying around since I pulled that apart, it's a 90 amp unit off possibly a VQ of some sort? I've had the pulley swapped from a multi rib to a v belt pulley for when it was on the L series.

It's pretty similar to the original unit, the top mounting bolt hole is offset to one side and it's actually further towards the pulley than the original which caused a bit of grief.




The original unit looks very similar to an L series one, this one is a 60 amp and going by the other sticker on it it's either been rebuilt or replaced at some stage.




The new alternator uses a different style of plug, I made up an adaptor for when it was in the Z. You can see the main output post at the bottom, this is also causing a bit of grief as it's an 8mm stud where the original is tiny - possibly 4 or 5mm. The original wire that runs from here to the fuse box is also quite small, I'll probably replace it with something a bit bigger.




I'll take some photos later on when it's going again, I have to go down to Repco to get some more terminals etc. The alternator is all mounted using a modified L series adjustor and the original v belt. It's not the easiest to adjust but it should be alright.

Alright, got the new alternator mounted on the weekend, used a modified L series adjuster which unfortunately isn't a threaded locking one, just a slotted bracket but it seems to work okay! Upgraded some of the wiring including the output of the alternator to the battery and a new much, much thicker ground cable.

So I checked the output of the old alternator before I took it off and it was around 14.2V with nothing on, with the new alternator with the high beams, radio and heater on full it's making 14.4V. Only problem is the car doesn't think it's charging even though it clearly is. There is a bulb check relay that lights up most of the lights on the dash which is triggered by the alternator so it knows when the ignition is on but the car isn't running, but the lights are on all the time. I pulled out the relay and the battery light is still on all the time, I've been driving it around since the weekend and it's running fine so I'm not quite sure what the problem is.

My late Z31 5 stud hubs have arrived so I'll have to find some rotors and some new wheels, I'm leaning towards R32 GTR wheels or possibly another type of BBS wheel, nothing too flash or expensive. I'm thinking about buying some R32 GTR calipers to try and fix the squealing from the Z brakes so that would make the R33 calipers spare so they might end up on this.

Ever since I've had the car the temperature gauge has been acting weird, I had a bit of a look the other day and the wire going to it broke off in my hand so I crimped on a new terminal but no change to the gauge reading, had a bit more of a look at the sender and the hex was rounded off and the resin part in the centre was loose and was able to turn.

I looked through the catalogue at Repco and of course there was no DR in there, closest thing was an S12 with an FJ so I got one of those senders but it must be the wrong resistance range as it would barely read above the first bar. I had a bit of a think and I'm pretty sure the gauge clusters are the same between the HRs and DR30s so I had a dig around in the garage and found a brand new Z sensor, kept digging and found the threaded collar that the Z's use to hold the sender in, had a measure up and it had a 16mm thread too, chucked it in and the gauge seems to be reading sweet. As it heats up it sits pretty much half way on the gauge, sitting in traffic it goes a little bit higher - I'm not actually sure that the fans are coming on, I've tested the fans themselves and they do work. Might put a couple of little LEDs running off the fan wiring so I know when the fans come on.

The L series setup looks like this:

Managed to kill the alternator today trying to fix the battery light problem. Took the car around to Zac's for him to have a look at and after trying a few things we decided it must be a fault within the alternator, we must have left it a bit too long with the sense and lamp wires backwards, there was a bit of smoke and now alternator no worky.

Had to drive it home on battery power, will see what I can do about it tomorrow.