New Zealand Datsun Club

I didnt word my post very wel, see drawing below as to the part thats fouling



I could probably take a bit from the outside, but 10mm would be getting into the tabs (the lighter metal you can see) which is all part of what holds the pads in, and I dont really think thats a good idea haha

Slip on spacer with longer studs - or you can buy those bolt on adapters down to i think 12mm. (had to do this on the Y originally)

Or if you took 5mm off the caliper then just use 5 mm slip on spacer.

yeh I had 10mm slip ons with longer studs on my triumph wagon. was a bit if a fuck around as studs were slighly larger and had to drill everything out etc.

I thought of taking a bit off (ie 5mm) and running a 5mm spacer however there is fuck all stud to work with so would need longer studs this way as well.

12 or 15mm bolt ons might be the go, however Im also weary of adding too much poke/whatever you want to call i dont want to have to do a heap f work to the guards.

will have another looksie/measure up, keen to take a bit of metal off to keep the wheels as close as possible to the hub (for reasons explained above)

Just get the 1mm cut off disc on the grinder and remove what you need and re spray the calliper and no one will ever know

beaver wrote:I didnt word my post very wel, see drawing below as to the part thats fouling

I could probably take a bit from the outside, but 10mm would be getting into the tabs (the lighter metal you can see) which is all part of what holds the pads in, and I dont really think thats a good idea haha

You worded it fine Beaver, It was my wording that would have been confusing.
Where the calliper pushes on the outer pad, (ie on the other side of that metal bit you put the circles on, just nearer the disc). You can remove metal from there (provided they are the same as 1200s) as well as the outside where your circles are, this might give you enough, although keep in mind that your pads may not be full thickness either so this may be an issue when you fit new brake pads.

Ah I think I get you now. Although how will removing material off the inside (where it pushs on the pad) help give room?

right, progress! b310 strut tops arriveed today so spend tonight putting them in.

It requires mild slotting of the holes for the strut top mount as well as opening up the hole for the mount to come through (pictures will make sense). there are a ew ways to do this, but I just used a crescent and slowly worked my way around the hole bending it up. Only took 10mins or so. other methods involve cutting/grinding but not so keen.







Also fitted bump steer spacers (thanks kitch!) to keep the steering arm at a somewhat reasonable angle.


and final result (looks so sweet on fins, super chuffed). excuse shit photos, not much room in garage for pics.




front and back are within ~5mm so spot on (front slightly higer). I imagine fronts will settle a bit as well


one problem remains however, front brakes are removed as the wheels foul on them. not keen to space wheels as itl put the tyres outside the guards (needs 10mm clearance)

what you guys rekon about removing 10mm from the outside of the brakes? see the pic with the ruler across, thats how much ill need to take off.

does anyone know if there are any models (1200, b110, b310 etc) that have a smaller/narrower caliper brakcet? would help out my clearance issues

I would seriously cut that peice of metal of dude. Its will be no problem at all

you're a bad influence on me! haha

I think I might just end up cutting it. there is plenty off meat there. will compare the current pads with new ones to see how much extra Ill need to allow for new pads (as they will move the bracket out towards wheel compared to the non new pads in there now)