New Zealand Datsun Club

brocky41 wrote:

Bartman wrote:Fourth gear is the only gear where there is no load on the countershaft.
So either your countershaft bearings are ugly, or The countershaft itself is coozed.
Bit disapointing if you've had someone have the cogbox apart, and this is the outcome.

Its just the rubber boot for the gearstick hole thats split - 4th gear is quiet because the gearstick holds the split closed ie more air comes in from outside in every other gear.

Has a couple of a series do that till i got all the console etc back in.

What Brock said. With that boot split, all the road noise and other mechanical noises that you don't normally hear invade the cabin. In other gears you can just hold your hand over the split in the boot and it's as quiet as the auto was - quieter, actually. The noise is particularly noticeable in this car because it's so quiet in every other area (especially now that the turbo doesn't shriek like a banshee!).

As a bonus the cat temp light went out on the way to James's place today and it hasn't done that horrible lurching/stumbling thing at all today either.

How'd you shut the turbo up?

Rag in the inlet always works for me.

Bartman wrote:How'd you shut the turbo up?

Fred rebuilt it with a new compressor wheel. So it's been rebuilt twice since I've had the car.

DJZ wrote:Rag in the inlet always works for me.

Almost did this while reassembling everything....

This car is so amazing it has the Launch of 1000 horsepowers

John I really enjoyed the ride in your car, it goes really well and its super quiet and super luxury loved it to bits

Thanks James, I just wish it had the speed and handling of yours too!

Been doing a few little bits and pieces, has run fine daily driving to and from work, plus a couple of runs out to rangoon. Yesterday I pulled the rubber shifter boot things - the one over the shifter on the gearbox and the one on the floor that seals off the hole. Used a whole tube of superglue at lunchtime carefully gluing them back together. The one on the floor is a two-layer deal so I cut to shape some of this sound deadener for houses that Brocky had and poked a hole for the gearstick before fitting it.

The whole thing looks pretty hori, but no more annoying gearbox/road noise inside the cabin.

Today I refitted the upper timing cover, what a $%#@ to fit when it's in the car. Checked ignition timing, seemed fine. Refitted my boost gauge and actually hooked up the wiring for the light and for the gearknob at the same time. Boost gauge still isn't mounted to anything as the trim panel that holds the auto selector thingy doesn't fit with a manual gearstick poking through, so need to find a manual C32 for that piece.

Refitted the centre console, bit of the dash that surrounds the radio and the lower dashboard on the driver's side that I removed when I started the conversion.

Also, my idle is now at a normal level - Brocky noticed that the cable was out of adjustment. A few quick turns later and I have a 800rpm idle when warm. Sweet. Bring on the cruise!

Well after a few weeks of just driving I decided to do some work. Passed another WOF right after the Oamaru cruise without any dramas, I did have some sweaty palms thinking about what I could get pulled up on but only ended up needing a corner light bulb. Sweet! I decided to give the car some low this weekend and fit my wheels that I bought ages ago - the seller advertised them as genuine Rays TE37V's, and assured me they were. But they're not. Whatever, I own them now and they were cheap. 15x8 front and 15x9 rear.

Fronts fit perfect with no rolling required and no guard rub. Rears rub a bit when on bumpy roads or getting the mad launch squat on, so some minor guard mods or different tyres will be required there.

For springs I really wanted super lows, but they don't make them for C32's. After lowering mine I now know why - they seem to have really low chassis rails from the factory. First Brocky and me tried fitting my super low S13 springs to the factory front struts. This looked AWESOME but gave me about 50mm from chassis rail to ground. We then pulled those out and fitted the nasty cut springs from the silver parts car that I bought. With these I currently have 85mm clearance at the front even with quite a large tyre to wheel arch gap.

In the rear I just fitted the standard springs and Monroe junk shocks from Brock's R30 "hatch wagon". These are about 20-25mm shorter than the C32 rears and took almost no time to fit. Sweet. Here's a pic of the C32 and R30 shocks side by side. For the front shocks, I was stoked to find out that they're oil shocks just like an old school Datsun, so I tipped out the thinnest, dirtiest looking oil I've ever poured out of any shock and cleaned everything up before adding ISO 46 hydraulic oil, which I got for nothing

Unfortunately Brock pointed out that one of my ball joints is totally knackered, and we also discovered that my strut top bearings and equally rooted, so I will have to replace all of that stuff now too. I've got some proper lowered front springs and new rear shocks coming, so I will replace those other items when I fit that stuff. Hopefully this will also get me up to the minimum 100mm ground clearance, otherwise I will look at fitting a 55 series tyre to the fronts. Here are some pics.

Looks Sweet John - heres my 2 pics worth

its true what they say, wheels make the car, they look awesome, good effort guys.

that does look really good. looks like a great wheels size for my laurel