New Zealand Datsun Club

Alrighty my holidays are almost over and I still haven't done anything except rev it up when people come round to visit. Bart was over last night and mentioned I should make a list of things I need to do to finish this thing off. So I did! She's a pretty big list...

*Make fuel filter bracket
*Get new handbrake cables made(mine are pretty rusty and no doubt second hand replacements will be also)
*Rebuild rear calipers
*Run rear brake lines
*Buy and fit new rear C.V boot clamps
*Get new rear springs made (1045lbs)
*Shorten rear shocks to suit
*Finish exhaust system(have my eye on an S13 2.5'' zorst on the tard, also getting a mig welder so might have a go at making my own from that...)
*Mount central locking solonoids
*Re-fit interior
*Mount ECU and relays to kick panel
*Get Dan to make tacho to work with the CA
*Get rear crossmember and front struts crack tested then paint and re-install
*Buy new rear discs
*Install driveshaft hoop - will need some more right angle flat bar as I used some of it for the g-box xmember. Still have the loop part.
*Buy my own tyres
*Attach front guards and grill permanently. Will also need to address the huge dent in drivers side guard at some point....
*Get speedo calibrated. For the moment I'm using my 4.3 R200 VLSD but have a 4.1 that I want to build as a mechanical LSD at some stage so will have to do this again.
*Fix oil leak in diff, just needs the cover removed and threebond used not red rtv.... will do this when rear end comes back out.
*Make a panel to conceal fuel tank in boot.
*Re-bleed brakes once rear calipers and lines are fitted
*Re-fit dash
*Mount horns
*Fit replacement reverse light switch - one on g-box at the moment has the connectors sheared off was like that when I got it.
*May need to shorten speedo cable?
*Mount battery box in boot, either get new cables made that reach boot or lengthen existing ones
*Get fittings welded onto turbo intake for BOV plumback and exhaust side cam cover fitting - eventually run a catch can.
*Plumb BOV into the turbo intake, need 1'' I.D hose.
*Plumb wastegate into I.C piping - will most likely need to strip anodising off and weld a fitting onto I.C pipe. No big deal as I can it re-done for freebies!
*Do a skid!!
*Get wheel alignment
*Go for cert
a) pass and have a big party or
b) fail have a cry sort it then still have a big party
*Drive the dam thing around after 6+ years and debut at Akaroa 2014!

If I have missed anything out don't be afraid to mention it.

Nice one Greg

Just get one thing crossed off at a time, Even the smallest job all matters.

Like mounting the Horns, Save up your dollars it starts to get expensive from now on out.

Shit Greg. You are going to be busy.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

Did some work on this today! Even if it was just hooking up the front doors central locking solenoids. Wasn't as hard as I first thought which is why I hadn't done it sooner. Going to have to get creative on the rear doors though, Mr Datsun didn't make 610 rear doors very central locking friendly.... No pics as I lost my good phone just before xmas and I can't find my SD card for my digi cam. Should have replacement phone soon be patient. Also as I was backing her into the garage noticed a big pile of water on the ground drove back out onto the drive to investigate. Could only see water dripping down passenger side chassis rail nothing in the engine bay. Then looked back into the inside of the car and noticed the heater box was leaking...... Will investigate further at some point.

Got my new phone so can take photos again yay! Here's a pic of the drivers door with the central locking motor installed. For the rear doors I'm going to need a much longer arm to mount to that short locking arm on the door will most likely end up mounting the motors vertically and attach to the locking arm. Will hunt around work for some quite small o.d rod.





Also spent many hours trying to track down the leak in the heater system. First I attempted to try and remove the whole heater assembly which was proving difficult, I suspected it was the heater tap right at the back but after putting my hand in behind it was bone dry, so after much confusion as to where this leak was coming from I manage to figure out that the core itself was leaking Whipped that out and yup pretty nasty leak on the side, which is weird must've been on it's way out as it never leaked since I first topped the cooling system up... Because I'm a hoarder and don't throw things out I had a spare! Filled that up with water to see if this one was any good seemed legit so chucked in it hooked the heater back up voilà no more leaks!





Still need to bleed the cooling system some more temp gets rather high, also my thermo switch for the fan doesn't seem to work and it's brand new! so currently have to run a jumper wire between the two connectors in order for it to work. Any thoughts on why the switch isn't working? Think it's an 85deg switch which I'm pretty sure is the same as the t-stat.

is the cooling system circulating? if not perhaps the thermostat is not opening, therefore hot water wont get to fan sensor. and temp will be high on guage.

If you havent done thermostat - do it - i melted a ca18 because of it - when left for a while they always seem to jam on these

Pretty sure water is circulating, and yeah done thermostat have replaced pretty much everything as the motor has been sitting for a loooooooooog time. Go back a few pages and see the condition of the old water pump Going to test switch tonight to eliminate that.

Just did a continuity test on the thermo switch, suspended switch in a pot of water with some wire and heated it up on the stove. My multimeter also has a temp setting so was able to keep an eye on the temp. Once it got up to about 85deg put the multimeter back to the continuity setting but no dice brand new switch appears to be poked keep heating the water till it got 100deg but still nothing. So this is more of a question for Brock seeing as he works at BNT, what can I do about this?? Not sure if I still have the receipt will have to dig through my folder full of receipts and hope it's there!

Did a little bit of work on this while I was waiting for the rust converter to dry, went to install the 100A circuit breaker I got a while ago to replace the factory fusable link that these have from factory. But the sheet metal screws wern't quite long enough so ended up being a fail. Will swap the ones I bought for longer ones and try again. Here's a pic of the circuit breaker.