New Zealand Datsun Club

Before we went tuning we did a Mega Awesome headlight wiring upgrade.

the LHS low beam had a 6v drop across it which was crap, so we decided what the heck lets do this overkill anyway.

4ga cable to the fuse block

8gb Cable to each relay

and 5mm2 power cable to each headlight.

I think the signal cable to the relays is a bit ligher as it dosn't have to carry any current any longer as its only tripping a relay.

Fuse block and 4ga red cable- The Bling shiny cable is the 8ga



Where we ran the split loom...

x1 is the RHS old headlight wires that are soldered and extended to provide signal to the relays.
x1 is LHS Power Wire
x1 is RHS Power Wires o the headlight bulbs.



And the Bosh Relay blocks mounted just above the cable entry into the fender. I have allowed a 3rd relay for misc / something else in the future.



The 50/65 watt bulbs in there are a similar brightness to the 90/100 watt bulbs in my truck

This system provides practically zero volt drop and allows me a very reliable circuit for running mega uprated bulbs

Here are the Carnage Pics

the shaft on the turbo is mega bent and big chunks missing from the turbine wheel.

Last turbo took me 3 hours to remove

this time it took me 90 minutes taking it easy and looking at Trademe on the PC i have in the Garage








There ya go can't ever be too sure with second hand parts.

damn, that is real bad

thats nasty!

Its a pain but Its better to happen now than on the Akaroa cruise.

it not only made a screeching grinding but it also partially blocks the exhaust because it can't spin, excesive back pressure causes a heat buildup in the manifolds which is a really bad thing.

didnt damage anything else did it bro?

after showing the turbo engineer, by looking at the blades he has said the turbine wheel got to hot from over spinning which caused temperatures in the turbine hosuing to sky rocket

This caused 2 things

1, it started to melt parts of the turbine blade off

2,the off balance blade induced bearing failure

So to sum up the turbo wasn't faulty it was a setup issue.

it seems that a 0.63 hot side is a bit small for Mildly built VG30

so now were pretty much going to build a custom turbo out of all kinds of different bits.

with a 0.82 exhaust housing from a fd42 Nissan diesel we will use the exhaust wheel from my spare OEM T3

then we will probably use t4 compressor & cover from the first turbo (the one with the RX7 hot side)


Along with all of this we are going to monitor exhaust gas temp , exhaust back pressure and inlet temperature > these will be input directly into my Tech Edge data logger so we can see when either of them spike on a nice big graph in the car with the laptop.

I am quite surprised that 7psi on a T3 was enough to cook itself only with cams/Nistune and some mild porting work

It would seem that the horrible cast elbow on a t3 almost acts as a self restrictor which keeps all this stuff in check, I am probably the only dickhead to run ported heads, Big cams and a 3" exhaust on a OEM t3 anyways.

I really expected it would not have overcome the waste gate like that and over spun itself.

wow

85_Z31 wrote:after showing the turbo engineer, by looking at the blades he has said the turbine wheel got to hot from over spinning which caused temperatures in the turbine hosuing to sky rocket

This caused 2 things

1, it started to melt parts of the turbine blade off

2,the off balance blade induced bearing failure

So to sum up the turbo wasn't faulty it was a setup issue.

it seems that a 0.63 hot side is a bit small for Mildly built VG30

so now were pretty much going to build a custom turbo out of all kinds of different bits.

with a 0.82 exhaust housing from a fd42 Nissan diesel we will use the exhaust wheel from my spare OEM T3

then we will probably use t4 compressor & cover from the first turbo (the one with the RX7 hot side)


Along with all of this we are going to monitor exhaust gas temp , exhaust back pressure and inlet temperature > these will be input directly into my Tech Edge data logger so we can see when either of them spike on a nice big graph in the car with the laptop.

I am quite surprised that 7psi on a T3 was enough to cook itself only with cams/Nistune and some mild porting work

It would seem that the horrible cast elbow on a t3 almost acts as a self restrictor which keeps all this stuff in check, I am probably the only dickhead to run ported heads, Big cams and a 3" exhaust on a OEM t3 anyways.

I really expected it would not have overcome the waste gate like that and over spun itself.

Sure you are not leaning that puppy out? Sounds more like a lack of oil flow through the bearing housing causing friction which causes heat etc.

It wasn't to lean at all

We had perfect Mid 11 Air Fuel Ratio all the way through boost.

It simply went to uncontrolled boost and shed itself to bits.

The only reason we didn't see a spike in boost is because the factory compressor is so small it simply created more heat instead of building more boost.

Definitely time to build a a more customized turbo to suit the engine