New Zealand Datsun Club

The crank pulley should be at tdc just less than half a crank pulley turn after the inlet valve closes.

Bartman wrote:The crank pulley should be at tdc just less than half a crank pulley turn after the inlet valve closes.

When the crack pully is at TDC the inlet lobe has pushed open the valve about 2 cm, given this would i assume ive put he crank pully a tooth out and its opening the valve to soon ?

on compression stroke at tdc, the next lobe to open will be the exhaust valve. The inlet valve should have only recently closed.

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That sounds like it's more than a tooth out

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Check your chain timing marks

I've always found this picture useful:

Been a long time thought i better make an update.

basically what you have all missed out on is a lot of frustration at trying to get the L20 to fire lots of different people looked at it and couldn't figure it out. pretty much ended with bad timing and a piston hitting a valve! and a lot of cursing from me.

So me and the L20 weren't getting along so I brought a Carbed L26 (off mutiny/Brock old one ) that I'm going to tidy up/replace bits/polish etc,.
I like the idea of running a carb, so much less to go wrong which is exactly what I'm looking for . . . i just want to be able to get in and drive her

I planning on cleaning the Engine bay out and re-spraying while the engines out, will also remove anything that's not needed and talking up room

I'm rather looking forward to making some progress on it in the coming weeks

will keep you updated.

Nathan

P.s Engine Block colour ideas??

Pleae paint your engine the same colour as nissan painted it. (Whatever colour that was for the L series?)

I'm pretty sure this is the original colour:



There's a Chrysler blue that's pretty close, looks a bit lighter to me. I do all my motors black

Also Adam might want your old L20 if you want to part with it?