New Zealand Datsun Club

if you do use a wider diff, it may offer better clearance for the calipers on the inner tub wall.

Can you post a picture of your existing rear end set up, showing where the shock absorber sits?
I'm about to undertake a version four design so I can lower mine at long last. But it is going to mean relocating the shock absorber mounts on the diff.

Hey Bart, hopefully this one should do it.

Let me know if you want any other angles

nice. That makes things much easier.
Can I get a shot from the side too?

Hopefully these are what you're after

are you going to run lowering blocks? it all effects how the caliper needs to sit.

I was planning on getting the springs reset and extra leafs added so I don't get too much axle tramp and to stiffen it up. I would possibly also run small lowering blocks so I wouldn't have to make get the leafs reset too "extreme". Just incase I ever wanted to adjust it.

maybe once you've lowered it I could loan you a version of the plates that I have spare. Then you could test fit it, and if need be rotate it till the caliper fits. Scibe a couple of lines, (Level "straight up" and level where is needs to sit) then measure the angle with a protractor, and get my CAD guy to draw a new program to suit.
Makes the most sence to get the rear ride height where you want it before trying to make the brakes fit. Lots can change once the car is slammed.

What is it that causes problems once it is lowered? Borrowing those plates could be useful thanks. What version are they? From memory your version 1 was mounted straight up, but version two was rotated?

the caliper body can foul on the inner tub wall. As well as the handbrake cable outer retaining arm too. I am feverishly doing research as to the best design/caliper combo to use. The spares I have ATM are my version two. I suppose the ones Damon has atm would be version three. I'm thinking about the likelyhood of a version four yet.
I'll be comparing P ten primera ones this week, and I'm also hoping to look at some S thirteen ones this weekend too.
The ones that Damon and Toby are running (version three)will only work with lowering blocks, as the handbrake bracket arm will foul the leaf otherwise.

hey bart, come and check what I did if you want.
I had all those problems and ended up forgetting about trying to keep the handbrake arm on the caliper and ended up cutting it off and welding it to the diff. Mine are also mounted round the front of the diff because of the rear shock being straight upright at the back of the spring perch
my version one was s13 brakes and the brake hose fouled on the inner tub./
version two used A31 calipers which suited me better anyway as they were bigger and matched the bigger front calipers I am using. The main difference which proved cruical was the brake hose came out the opposite side of the caliper to the bleed nipple whereas on the s13 the hose came out on the same side which meant when the bleed nipple was pointing up (important if you ever want to bleed your brakes) the hose fouled the inner tub. Pissed me off some what when I saw that