Datto_610's 180B - Street Legal!

[classicdat]

Replace all fuses tomorrow Greg, then report back on what is left to do.
I'd be keen, just depends how much I have caught up on, after the past 4 weeks getting behind.

[Datto_610]

Adam came over to help figure out this issue with the brakes. He took a pad out of the front caliper and as I gently pressed on the brake pedal he was was trying to force the pistons back in which wouldn't.... so that meant pressure wasn't going back through the master cylinder which would explain the brakes locking up. After a bit of back and forth trying to solve the mystery we unbolted the master from the booster, the small push rod that comes kout of the booster looked like it was fully adjusted inwards but protruded out a fair way.... we compared the push rod to a booster I have from an R30 and the skyline end nut was shorter. Also noted that there was a gap between the booster and master that would only close up by tightening up the master cylinder mounting nuts. So that would cause preload on the master cylinder before I've even touched the pedal right? I'm picking that the piston in the 260c 7/8 master is maybe further toward the end of the master compared to the 180B 3/4 master. The booster also doesn't stick out as much from the firewall as the 610 booster. Which would probably have the shorter end nut. Pics may explain.



^^original vs R30



^^ R30 short nut fitted to 180B push rod



^^180b booster



^^H230 260c booster

Fitted it all back up no gap between master and booster just had to jiggle it a bit because the lines had bent a bit. Gave it another bleed and all seems to be ok went for a hoon around the block a few times with no issues but may still need to drive it more to really tell I guess...

All fuses are fine I've checked with multimeter, pretty sure it's horn switch related or the wire that runs through the dash to engine bay for the relay. I make the horns beep if I touch the power feed to the horn wire so it's gotta be the horn switch. As for the wipers I'm not sure what that could be as I have seen them work when Dan had it at his place to do the wiring so I may have bumped or disturbed something to make them stop working since then.

Any help would be much appreciated as you all know I'd do the same!!

[classicdat]

The Dull lights is often caused by a faulty fuse which will not show as blown.

[Datto_610]

Fuses are fine have replaced ALL of them multiple times I believe it may be caused by a bad earth?? Anyways if anyone is free to help that would be much appreciated!

[Datto_610]

More electrical gremlins have shown their ugly head so have taken to one of our customers who's pretty good with wiring on old cars. Seeing as I don't have much time and no offers of help.... I just need it done!

[2 doors]

Electrical gremlins suck, I was tempted to help, but we off to Aussie in a couple of weeks, and need to finish the jobs currently on the go before we leave.

[Datto_610]

No worries Wal! Hopefully nothing major as things were working and now they're not.... found more things stopped working on the drive there....

[2 doors]

Which things?

[Datto_610]

Dash lights, gauges, tail lights, indicator flashes slow unless foot is on the gas all annoying shit!

[beaver]

Check what your alternator is doing/check voltage at the battery when running. Should be low 13s from memory. Voltage issues do cray cray things to relays and electrical systems.

Also check your earths.