Engine wiring loom, in the loops from the top:
Spare auxillary inputs and outputs, the blue wires are the ignitor wires and boost controller wiring
Computer grounds to engine block
On the left is the wiring to inside the cabin for the tach, boost controller switch etc
On the right is the actual engine wiring, 90% of the wiring runs down the left hand side of the motor which is good. I should be able to keep it reasonably tidy.
Injector plugs, new temp sensor with a normal Bosch plug on it and not the silly oval one that it came with factory.
Engine bay wiring loom, still trying to figure out how to run it, need to get some more split loom tubing.
Had to modify the radiator slightly, the intercooler is a very tight fit.
Gear stick will need to be cut down a bit I think, looks like it's going to be massive long even when the centre console is back in. This is good 'cause I'll cut it down and weld an M8 bolt/stud in the hole so I can use the gear knob that I've used ever since I bought this car. It originally came off the first two seater that I owned and parted out.
Don't think I've mentioned it before but I've got this other slightly problem to fix too.
DJZ's 280ZX
Re: DJZ's 280ZX
If everything goes according to plan I'll have this running tomorrow or the day after, main hold up at the moment is getting the wastegate pipe welded to the exhaust manifold. There are still a couple of other little jobs to do like figuring out how to reduce the idle solenoid input and output from 22mm down to 14mm without it being bulky and ugly, but I can start the car without that.
Got a starter motor yesterday after I was told that the L series ones would work, which they don't as the solenoid hits on the block. Wiring is 90% finished, enough to start the car anyway. I got the latest version of PC Link today and updated the firmware on the computer, loaded the RB base map and set everything up, tested the TPS, injectors, ignition system etc etc, I'll give it another going over before I start it as I was working from memory.
Still haven't sorted out my wheel situation, got offered a set of 18x9 BBS LMs for $2600 without tyres, turned it down. They just aren't worth that much.
Got a starter motor yesterday after I was told that the L series ones would work, which they don't as the solenoid hits on the block. Wiring is 90% finished, enough to start the car anyway. I got the latest version of PC Link today and updated the firmware on the computer, loaded the RB base map and set everything up, tested the TPS, injectors, ignition system etc etc, I'll give it another going over before I start it as I was working from memory.
Still haven't sorted out my wheel situation, got offered a set of 18x9 BBS LMs for $2600 without tyres, turned it down. They just aren't worth that much.
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Re: DJZ's 280ZX
video of it running. Can't wait to see!
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Re: DJZ's 280ZX
The Z won't make it to Nationals unfortunately, it won't be anywhere legal by then. I'll be rolling in something else, don't know what yet!
Re: DJZ's 280ZX
Managed to finally get it started tonight, only left it running for about 60 seconds but at least it ran!
Originally I was trying to get it running using the "R34" base map in the Link, using the timing light on it it looked like the timing was way way out so I swapped to the CAS from the R30, still didn't have any luck with that so I swapped to the RB20DET 440CC injector map. Set everything else up again this morning and tried again, still no luck. I originally though it was too lean so I richened it up a bit, turns out it was too rich so I just made it worse hah.
So, reduced the injector timing as far as I could then had to lean out the fuel table quite a bit too, got it running and managed to lose probably 1.5L of my brand new oil through a broken hose on the oil pressure gauge that I didn't notice earlier, opps! Amazing how much oil can come out of such a small hole in a short space of time.
It goes so now the new thing to do is finish the cooling system so I can run it for longer.
Originally I was trying to get it running using the "R34" base map in the Link, using the timing light on it it looked like the timing was way way out so I swapped to the CAS from the R30, still didn't have any luck with that so I swapped to the RB20DET 440CC injector map. Set everything else up again this morning and tried again, still no luck. I originally though it was too lean so I richened it up a bit, turns out it was too rich so I just made it worse hah.
So, reduced the injector timing as far as I could then had to lean out the fuel table quite a bit too, got it running and managed to lose probably 1.5L of my brand new oil through a broken hose on the oil pressure gauge that I didn't notice earlier, opps! Amazing how much oil can come out of such a small hole in a short space of time.
It goes so now the new thing to do is finish the cooling system so I can run it for longer.
Re: DJZ's 280ZX
Oh and two injectors looked like they weren't working, did the old tap the battery charger straight on it them + brake clean + air gun and managed to get them both clicking again.
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Re: DJZ's 280ZX
Mean!
They don't call me the man with the rubber arm for nothing you know.............
Re: DJZ's 280ZX
Got my mate to give me a hand tonight and we managed to get it running again and heaps better, turned out that it needed more air bypassing the throttle plates.
I haven't hooked up the idle air controller yet so that's one thing I need to do this weekend, along with getting some radiator hoses so I can warm it up to temp.
I haven't hooked up the idle air controller yet so that's one thing I need to do this weekend, along with getting some radiator hoses so I can warm it up to temp.
Re: DJZ's 280ZX
Quick little video of it running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ii1OnIr3O1w
It sounds like a tractor 'cause the exhaust is only tacked together.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ii1OnIr3O1w
It sounds like a tractor 'cause the exhaust is only tacked together.