New Zealand Datsun Club

My CLSD has K cast in it and I think it is 4.1:1 it just takes UJ type axles. I am sure it is a Nissan one. Subbies are normally 4.4:1 I think. All the best.

Got another open R180 that is 4.375:1, it came with another set of CV axles (I must have about 5 or 6 sets now) and the 3x2 companion flanges that I need. So now I just have to wait for the LSD to work it's way down from Auckland and I can put the rear end back together and back in the car.

I realised that the CV axles don't need the flanges that go into the diff so I don't need to worry about swapping in the buttons to bolt them to etc etc.

Still need to drop the auto out at some stage.

I've fully welded the inlet manifold now, it doesn't look anywhere near as nice as I would have liked but should seal, I might grind it down and weld over it again to give it some shape if I can be bothered at some stage. Need to start port matching it and make some cut outs for the return springs/linkages. I also need to see if the original RB26 manifold studs will work or not, I have a feeling they might be too long and will hit on the trumpet adaptors.

Something like this:

New diff arrived today, it has a little bit of surface rust on the crown wheel but I think it'll clean up okay. Interestingly the backing plate has LSD cast into it and it looks to have a Nissan mustache bar on it so maybe it's a DR30 R180?

Bumpers for the Laurel arrived today as well so I just need to chuck them on the car, get a wheel alignment and book it in for recompliance.

I have basically all the bits to put the Z together now, I'll jam it all together and get it running then take the motor out again to get the body work/paint done. I think I'm going to get it painted one of the new Nissan non metallic reds like on the Juke/Xtrail/Navara or 370Z/R35.

Something like this colour:

Painted the rear control arms, sway bar, sub frame and diff today, just plain black. Will be able to put the rear end back in maybe next weekend then I can put the car back on the ground.

Also started to tidy up the porting that I started on the inlet manifold, broke through in one place so I must have over done it on the carbide burr, will have to weld it up.

The crownwheel in the LSD turned out to be quite pitted in one spot when I gave it a good clean so I've dropped that and the 4.375 diff off at James' so he can work his magic on it. The 4.375 should be pretty good in this car I think, with the L series gearbox and a reasonably high redline it should be okay.

I just got my Diff stand Dyna Bolted down last night Daniel. First one should be stripped out before the cruise ready for a date with the micrometer and dial gauge

Fixed the inlet manifold, put quite a bit of weld on the inside and outside of the port that I broke through on, then ground it back, should be okay.

Dropped the auto box out of this today, forgot how much I hate autos and spilling ATF everywhere! Need to get this thing rolling pretty soon.

Has anybody had first hand experience with breaking a castor rod running polyurethane bushes on both sides? The bushes that I got in the kit are really hard (almost plastic) and I'm a bit worried about it, the rubber bushes were quite cracked so I don't want to use one on them on one side. Might have to look at something like the Techno Toy Tuning rods, I'm not sure if they'll pass cert here though as they don't have rubber boots to keep dirt out? Will do some more research.

Can't you just put rubber boots on the techno arms? I have rubber boots for the rose joints on my gktech tie rod ends. Hoping they will be ok for cert

Might be able to, I haven't looked for boots separately yet. The cheap S13 ones I got for the other Z came with boots.