New Zealand Datsun Club

Well it turns out i don't even have a build thread on these forums very weird indeed as i thought i did.
Well i'll copy and paste some stuff from OZDat then add on where im up to now.
Enjoy.

Model 1973 140J Delux
Basicly this is a 4 door sedan of the popular 160Jsss Violet Coupe
Both cars are known as KP710s

The 140J was not avalible in sss and came with a Live Axel rear end.
(there where a very small amount of 4 door 160Jsss sedans).

Engine: Stock L14
Driveline Stock 4speed Stock Diff etc,

Car has been in dry storage for 9 years. Hence very good condition and very little rust. The rust above the rear windscreen is the only stuff i could find in the car.



White Interior hard to find.


Rust


My other cars on this site.
My SR20DET 6Speed 160J
My 160J Road Car

Here are a few pics of what i have been upto on the 140J this car has taken my Number 1 priority now as i want to finish it for my daily driver.
I'll be keeping the stock L14 as it is but will be replacing a couple of the gaskets while its out.
I't ran so well when it was in there.
Replacing the shagged 4 speed with a unknown condition 5speed.
Unsure as to weather i should use the 160JSSS grill, steering wheel, and cluster. Or leave the stock stuff in there for the more original look.

Heres a view of the rear of the car.
This shows my brackets i made. I designed them so they can be used with any car (you just need to make your own adapters) and can also be height adjustable axle stands when the car is over on its flat.


Front view of the car. The rust is only surface,


The scraping of the under body begins.


Closeup of what ive done so far.


Firewall is pretty clean only surface rust here.


Next plan for the car is finish the scraping then get it either sand or soda blasted.
Im trying to work on a cheap deal for soda blasting as this will save time striping back the panels.

When i first got this car i just wanted to tidy up the rust round the screens to get a WOF then use it. Last time i listen to my Brother inlaw who is a panel beater when he says things like.
"Well just take the glass out it'l be easier."
"May as well strip it and get the rust blasted."
"May as well do it once and do it right."
Now look how much extra work ive got on my plate.


I have new bumpers and head lights (100w bulbs) for the car and working on new seals and tail lights al thought i have a few sets that are pretty mint so not sure if i should or not.

Hope you enjoy the update shows i havn't just been sitting on front of the computer telling people how to do there own cars, Iv actually slowly been doing something on my own,

Well had some progress on the weekend We pulled car out of the shed where it has call home the last few months put it on a trailer and took it to the local sandblaster.
$180 later the floor (inside and out) Fire wall engine bay doors (where applicable) and anything that could be blasted was blasted.
Next up a good coat of DP40 2pac primer was applied to keep it all rust free and happy. (to those who know DP40 isn't cheap)
You can see in the photo that my bro inlaw has put on his fair share of primer (being a qualified panel beater) so breathing equipment wasn't required as his lungs have built up an immunity to it.
Na actually the mask was found to have mouse poo in it so he decided that the paint would be safer to inhale (just don't tell OSH).









From what was originally going to be a chop out the rust slap some paint on it and drive it its gotten a little out of hand.
Bastard Rian telling me i should do things once and do it right.

Oh well at least its good practice for the 160Jsss Coupe.

Updates on the engine. For the time being i will refit the L14 mainly because i want to get some base figures on fuel economy before i rebuild and fit my Injected L16 that will go into the car long term.

Underside has had its 5 very small sections of rust repaired (as they were very very small no patching was needed just had to weld up the holds with the mig (i did have a talented man on the pointy end of the mig which helps). Next up was the spray with under seal (4 cans later) i used the 3M brand which according to the paint shop has a very good reputation.

While we were waiting for the nice shiny new mig to arrive (some thieving scum decided that they were more entitled to the old one than we were as well as my bro in laws older brother Mazda Bounty his motor bike and a hole lot of other tools that where in his shed). we blasted and painted up the diff and suspension. I have had new bushes made for the parts that needed new bushes and im just waiting on Baz to get back to me on new ball joints and tie rod ends. (I'll install them once they get here its not a had job when all bolts are greased and everything is clean).
Pictures show the car still on its side but painted under side and brake/fuel lines fitted with most suspension parts fitted i'll put the car back down on the ground before i fit diff and struts,
I need to do a little more under seal in the front guard area as it was hard to get to when it was in this position. But that's no biggy.




edit the weird marks on the second photo must be dust on the lens never noticed it till now.

Well heres where im upto now. Not much has changed at all. Getting the paint sorted now so it won't belong before the interior engine boot area etc all get painted. Doing that myself as its not really vital to be 100% perfect and it saves me a bit of money as im doing all this on $14 /hour while saveing for a house.

Just got the final lot of Soda blasting finished today. So after ive gone over it all to remove the rust etc (detailed in photo) then i'll give it a wash and put some DP40 on it.

Then it'l be time for my bro inlaw to take over a bit and do the panel work.




The Nasty Nasty Rust!


Engine bay primed


Not all the white stuff on the booster is Baking Soda i have been to lazy to blow it off just yet. The one problem with blasting. Shit goes EVERYWHERE!

very nice project man. well done on the work so far. future plans?

140J's FTW!

awesome pics man.....would love to see any and every pic you have of your build lol
I thought the 140J would not be a KP710?.... as the K is usually for hardtop/coupe.....such as the 160J coupe
are they not just a P710?

so can you not buy things like ball joints in NZ?
what spare parts do you have? we have all the bits we need, but some of the bits could be in better condition lol

Yip heres my future plans.
L18E ive had it running on the ground got 175,165,165,175psi across the cylinders and ran beautifully. But then i took the top radiator hose off i found some nasty greasy shit so it'l get the rings bearings paint and gasket treatment. If im feeling rich at the time it might even get a new oil pump.




Other than that i have a R30 5 speed in unknown condition. Will fit new rear seal but other than that i'll throw it in i have another one sitting in the shed also in unknown condition so it was just a matter of take my pick on which one to use. If ones broken i'll just hope the other isn't.

I also have a borg warner Flacon LSD i may get shortened down later on down the track. Im hoping to find a R31 Live axle diff at some stage for free so i can get a better ratio head and 4 stud axles if i choose to use those.

Then if i get the bug to build a full house SR20DET for my 160J i'll prob pull the current 35,000km motor from the 160 and put that into the 140J as its to good a motor to chop up and mod. Id rather find a higher ks block if im going to open one up.
But thats a far off maybe i might get bored of cars before things get that far down the track. (i highly doubt i'll get board of dattos though).

Yip your right the K does stand for Hard top coupe so this is a J710

JKPL710SATKUQ

J= Rigid Rear Axel
(No J)= IRS
K=Hardtop
(NO K)=Sedan
P=L16
(no P)= L14
L= Left Hand Drive
S= Standard Model
A= Auto
(Space) = Column Shift
T= Floor Shift
K = Twin Carbs
U Right Hand Drive
Q= For Europe

As for photos i try take as many as i can but i always forget.
Next up is fit boot and petrol flap cables.
If you have any questions feel free to ask i have quite abit of info on the J cars.
As for parts i do have alot of parts from drive line to body panels glass lights etc. Im kind holding on to everything at this stage till the cars back together, Id really hate to sell something then work out i actually need it and right now everything is stored in 1 big pile in my parents shed.
If you are in need of something in particular then do ask i may know off top of my head if i have it spare or not just don't take offense if i say no at this stage as its even a mission for me to find stuff i need with the current storage situation.

AS for ball joins etc yip could prob get them in NZ as most stuff is same as Datsun 510 stuff. My new 510 joints are identical in every way to what i took out of my car. Alot of my New stuff i do get in NZ
Baz is a great guy to deal with and will go out of his way to help ya.