New Zealand Datsun Club

I have a R200 CLSD 4.1 Ratio from a HR31 Turbo Skyline.
Ive gone a different way with my diff so its not really need it. I was thinking of keeping it just to see what it goes like compared to the Helical LSD i have in there now. But i probably never will.

Anyway i was thinking of setting it up as a bolt in a go option.
This means i will get the axels shortened and set the hubs up in arms so its all ready to go in a Datsun 510 or 180B or 160J etc.

(probably won't include the rear mount bar)

Basically if someone wants to give me any idea of what i should be asking for this setup or make me a good offer we can go from there,
I really have no idea what it would be worth and is just sitting around right now.

hey man, just a thoght on the helical do you know how they work...
you have to have both wheels on the ground ie once one wheel brakes traction it delivers all the power to that wheel so they are only and lsd when you have grip on both wheels.
we blew the cusco lsd in the rally car and only spare we had was a helical so we learnt how they worked


stick with the plate type, i took mine out for its first drive and omg what an awesome diff

this is a basic statement from wiki

[edit] S15 Helical LSD
The S15 differential has gears that are cut in a fashion that when the car is turning the gears mesh together and transfer power to the tire with more traction. It does not lock like a clutch diff, but is very smooth. The best thing about a helical diff is that it practically never wears out. You can treat it the same as an open diff, change the oil regularly and it will outlast the car.

The S15 helical differential is probably the best diff for road racing applications. It is not recomended for drifting because it never actually locks. The differential can only multiply the torque it can apply at the side with low traction, so if one tire has very little traction (such as on ice or in the air) then the differential will act the same as an open differential.

so keep the clsd

you still got the 810 bumper?

how much would you be looking, im really interested.

how close to a bolt in would this be for a C110? would save me investing in a ATB LSD from quaife.

It'd be close.....but CV axle lengths may be wrong....the CV axles are setup for the width of a 510....so if a C110 had a similar track width then you might be ok.
but you'd be better to get all the bits (either yourself....or off this add) and just do the axles yourself

Yip i have no exactly how a helical diff works believe it or not its the same as a Torsen which means torque sensing.
I only have intentions of using my car for drag and road use so unless something really turns to shit both wheels had better always be on the ground.

I like the idea of a Helical as i believe from the research i have done they can't be beat for a road car.

I only have the diff and axels now but i know a guy who can shorten then for me and i know exactly what measurements to get them shortened to.
As for fitting to a C110 i have no idea i have never played with thoes cars and don't know how they are set up widths measurements etc.

I was thinking of setting the diff up and doing some comparison testing between Helical VLSD CLSD and 2Way etc. So unless someone really wants it (as i could kinda do with the money) thats what i'll do,
Atleast that way i'll be able to give some real life feedback between all the diffs i have

How much would you be looking for the diff? pretty much bolt in except for moustacsh bar mods and drive shaft?

Make me an offer use the Pm function if you like,
im only trying to see if anyone is interested im trying to repaint my 140J to use as a road car over summer time so the money will help,
If it doesn't sell i'll convert the rear of my 140J to IRS useing my spare 160J stuff and run it in that. But right now im strugling to get together the money for the paint and panel work.

Sell it to Bart, he needs it the most.

Bart's after my rear R30 flanges which he is welcome to if some one can find me "1" of the larger spline type ones.