New Zealand Datsun Club

Well i have a 140J and i now have a spare L14 block.
Has a little surface rust on one of the bores may or maynot clean up.

So was thinking of building a stroker motor for it. ( all ready have 2 other engines in line for this car so don't ask me why im thinking of doing it).
Atleast it could get around a cert.

So was thinking.
I have a L16 Engine sitting round doing Jack shit. (unknown condition)
Or i can get hold of a Z18ET block with damaged piston.

1: L14 Block L16 Crank Rods and Pistons (do i use the L14 or L16 pistons the L14 pistons have valve reliefs i don't know about the L16)

2: L14 Block Z18 Crank & Rods L14 or L16 pistons.

3 L14 Block Z18 Crank & Rods bore to suit L18 pistons

Head would be a W53 Injected head or A87SSS head

I could make a poll but im to lazy so post up your ideas
Im not even sure if the above combos would even work. I can't see why not though. And at least they are cheap and easy to achieve.

Which would be the best for a nice freely reving combination.
Im kinda getting sick of my L20B engine. And its only done 1400ks

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

IT's great to have options. My preference is for short stroke, long rod combinations, these ratios are supposed to rev. better.
I have done a wee bit of research about L6's to build stroker motors with 6 cyl. blocks they use short L14 rods to keep the deck height down (I think) with the increased crank throw. Usually you can't just swap cranks and rods from one engine to another as deck heights are different. This may not be the case with L4's but I would be surprised.
You may need to do some digging before collecting up to many parts or making too many plans.
How about an L20B with L14 slugs? Something different.

im building a long rod L18 for my 140j im gona end up with a bit of work but useing L14 rods and finding flat top SR20 pistons

is the L14/16/18 block deck heights the same?
If so you'll be able to use a crank with a decent throw. As vaughn said, a longer rod can give better torque. So it's a trade-off really.

I have a 2.2 stroker for an l20b (crank and rods out of a z22 or something like that). Was used in a race motor.

From what i can tell from my book. I forgot to measure with a tape before i put the block away. (will do it tomorrow) L14,L16,L18 all have the same block heights.
I have a L18E on the engine stand so i'll measure them both.

L20B with L14 Slugs won't work not without sleeveing down the block. L20B has larger bore. Same size as L18

L14,L16 have the same bore size L18 is larger.

I have most of the parts i need anyway. The Z18ET block i should be able to get for next to nothing. (ive helped the guy out on his ute a bit and given him a few parts free of charge as he is kinda a mate.
Im pretty sure i even have a couple sets of standard rings and bearings somewhere spare.
The only part that'l cost money is a few extra gaskets and boring the block if it needs to be done.

Ive looked at that engine calc on ozdat but didn't understand the compression ratio part of it so didn't know if what i was trying was possible or not. It also wouldn't let me fit L18 pistons to a L14 block because they are over sized.

Okay.
Perhaps bestest bet would be to find an L20B block, use the bigest piston you can fit in it, and run like an L18 crank (Find the goodest one, there are two variations) and then use the longest rods that will work woth that combo. It'll give you the best of both worlds. Good displacement, large bore, long rods, and short(ish) stroke. It'd make for a free revving, but still nice and torquey combo.

Thats actually quite a smart idea.
Except with out custom parts i don't know if there would be any rods longernuf to work with the factory L18 crank and pistons that just off the top of my head though.

I was just keen to put together an engine that will give me more displacement (than 1400cc) that will still rev well in a L14 block. While using all factory parts they are simple to bolt together, Im not after magic just improvement.

L16 Crank Rods and Pistons makes a L16engine with a different number on the side of it. So might just do that as the L16 i had in my 160J before it died of low compression was a great little engine so free reving went really well. I guess a couple times round the clock is good for freeing things up.