New Zealand Datsun Club

1973 KP710 160Jsss Coupe Violet
I say one of as i have another 160Jsss basically stock for a road car
And a 140J Sedan which i have devoted all my time and spare money to to try get one car finished first then move onto the next rather than takeing for ever to finish 3.

This is the main car people would be interested in so this is the one i'll post about i'll add pics of my other cars at some stage.

About the car:
160Jsss Coupe
Engine:S15 Spec SR20DET Stock 35,000km

Drive line: 6 Speed SR20DET Box 35,000km
Custom Drive Shaft
R200 Diff (currently fitted with a 4.65:1 Helical LSD)
Have many other ratios including VLSD and CLSD centers to trial).


Suspension: Front:
910 Bluebird Struts (will change to R31 Turbo Struts)
S13 Camber Tops
Coilover Height Adjustable Springs
Rear:
Lovell Lowering Springs
New Shocks

Brakes: Front:
300zx 5Stud Hubs
Hilux 4pots (New Pads)
Ma70 Discs 300mm

Rear:
R30 Hubs
R30 Disc
R30 Calipers
The hole braking system will be getting reworked and changed as over the last couple years ive picked up some much better hardware.

Wheels : Desmond Rims.
Front = 17X7 +30mm
Rear = 17x8 +40mm


I brought the car as someones failed project they had pulled the car down and sprayed it with primer, Half the car wasn't even sanded back that well.
Its pretty close to rust free the worst parts are Rear Tail light panel (which i have a NOS replacement) And along the tops of the Front and Rear Windscreens.

Plans for the car have since changed since its been in storage.
I'll most likely move the SR20DET and 6speed to my 140J sedan once its all setup in this car. Then replace it with a SR20VET and R33 GTST 5speed box or maybe a 350Z box (undecided in that area at this stage) I have approx 90% of the hard to find parts for a SR20VET RWD conversion just the expensive easy to find parts to go. Ive just been collecting up bits and pieces here an there for it.
Have decided a goal of a 10Sec pass for this car and 300wkw.
A half cage will be fitted while retaining Interior (rear seats will be unusable but will still be there will get them re trimmed with holes in center of back rest to allow for harnesses to go through)
Fully strip and get it bead blasted then get my Bro Inlaw to help me panel (good to have a qualified Panel Beater in the family)
Paint in a yet to be fully decided colour but will be a dark candyish purple colour.

Side view of rear quarter

View of the Springs Shocks and R30 Rear end conversion.


I have been doing the od little bit here and there since the car has been stored away. (unfortunately its not in the best storage area and the body has gone down hill a little bit. Hopefully before next winter it will be in my shed ready to be worked on again).
Car now has CV Axles fitted made by John (off this site) top quality job at a great price.
Car runs and starts off the key. Doesn't idle but i think this may have something to do with it has no intercooler piping and i just shove the AFM onto the throttle body.

Can't wait till my 140J is back from the painters and assembled with the glass back in it so i can move it outside and get this back to my place then the fun will really start. Ive learn't alot working on my 140J and feel ive done that to a high standard but this i'll take to another level again.

It will be quite sometime before this is updated again but it will happen.

Thats pretty cool bro, have much luck finding 160j body parts, got any spares?.
i am currently restoring a 160j but mines a we bit more fucked then yours is by a million times lol.

Body parts are really really hard to find. I looked for 4 years before i found a boot lid.
Front guards are the other thing thats really really hard to find.

Good to see some photos man

I actually didn't realize that this build thread wasn't on here those photos are a couple years old. Its probably actually gone backwards since it was taken. But i guess atleast it runs now. And can turn the wheels.

Keep at it dude!

hey dude where did you get your p12 CAS from and how much?
Im in the market for a couple. I know they are pricey (Very very pricing if dealing with cockram nissan)

From the US buy now while the dollar is good.
Another option is to use the Mazworks kit it uses pick up on the front of the head not the rear so you blank off where the dizzy/CAS would usally be all together.
If your thinking of doing a RWD VE buy there intake manifold if nothing else its a work of art puts anything greddy etc has ever made to shame. Ive seen there manifold with my own eyes and trust me it really is that fantastic,

You just get it through gspec or ebay it?
I cant justify the current price of the p12 cas, I havent checked lately though. Will probably just end up making mine crank triggered same as the mazworx kit.
Im not doing a vet though, mine will a a ve powered circuit car so mine'll have ITBs

Ah i see. The CAS i got from G spec. About quarter of the price than from NZ Nissan,
Most people make a CAS from the standard VE dizzy. Mazworks use a completely different unit and go through one of the frost plugs in the front of the head with a pick up mounted to the cam gear.
The cut down dizzy option would most likely be the cheapest and easyest of the lot if you can do it yourself.
Hopefully soon i'll be able to get my hands on the actually flow rates of a Gtir Head, S14 Head, Std VE Head, and a ported over sized valves VE Head.

Apparently there is huge huge gains to be made from the VE head with very little porting required.