New Zealand Datsun Club

OPINIONS NEEDED!!!

so aperently a while back doing skids with a open wheeler ive managed to fu*k my 4speed gearboxtail shaft bearings or something,
tryed to continue driving to have my complete flywheel snap off all my blots in the crank (awesome)

pulled the gearbox out pretty unusul looking pulling it out complete with flywheel and clutch looks like an auto trans

i managed to carefully tap out 5 of the 6 broken bolts but cant get the last im now starting to make a bit of a mess out of it and snaped a drill bit in it too (fu*kd)

*motors now out of the ute again
*H165 lockey installed
*s13 brakes in
*25mm spacers to clear brakes
*shortened struts


im going to need:
*new crank
(but needs to be mint my crank is still runing standard sized bearings on fresh rebuild so tidy and extremly low ks


OR:
do i get datsun on it and say fu*k it ive not long had the motor built y dont we bore out the block this time round and run oversized pistons?? (if so how cheap can this be done??) bart said honda pistons or some shit??

parts ive got:
*ive got another a12 flywheel are these the best to use?
*5 speed gearbox

Yes, use a12 flywheel (get it lightened) and fit 5 speed.

pics here!

what do i lighten my a12 flywheel to exactly?

be careful not to take to much off, being cast, you will take away some of the strength of the flywheel. as for the crack, remove it and take it to an engineer to remove the broken bolt. i recommend 3way engineering on pilkington way in wigram

cant see it working tho theres a snapped drill bit it there too just need a new crank i think

I can get your flywheel lightened cheap as.
If you're really keen, I can have your flywheel redrilled to take a bigger clutch too.

I've broken flywheel bolts before too. The cause it over-revving. When you over rev the clacker off a A series, a harmonic is generated that will shake the flywheel loose. Having the bottom end of the motor balanced helps. The biggest problem is that the PCD of the bolts is too small. And that the bolts aren't a dowelling fit. With the bolts almost done up tight, there is still enough play for the crank to move fore and aft a little bit. The bolts hold the flywheel tight, but not in place. And when it starts moving, the bolts either come undone, or they capitulate all togther.

cheers bart that sheds a whole lot of light on the idea
morrie was saying the other day your oldman can lighten flywheels so il get that done yeah cheers

don't spose uve got a spare crank?

i might keep things cheap as possible motor stil goes awesome so might just chuck it on an engine stand leave the pistons in and just swap the crank over and re-do the bearings and sump gasket should be do-able aye?

oh also when looking for cranks are a12 ones any different?

Yes My old boy can put your flywheel on a diet.
A12 cranks are different. The stroke is shorter.

You could swap another crank into your block, but you'd want to measure it properly to make sure it's in spec, and has no ovality etc. With the pistons and rods still in the block, you might need a couple of pairs of hands to help you refit the new crank. You'd really need to fit short lenghts of rubber hose over the rod bolts so the threads dont mark the crank journal(s).
If you're going to screw the fuck out of your engine, you might be best to dowel it to the end of your crank. I use two 5mm silversteel dowels in mine.