New Zealand Datsun Club

Also i have a buffing wheel with a cake of red stuff tried using it but did not become all shiny like i was hoping

I dont deal with the polishing side much, just the plating but, i would use a buffing wheel suitable for alloy with the appropriate polishing compound. As for that mark wet and dry should be able to get it out. But dont qoute me on this get a second opinion.

Work down through the grades of VERY FINE (1200 and higher )sandpaper, then move onto scotchbrite pads, and autosol with that. Then down to a coarse Rag, then a fine rag.
Should see some nice shine by then.

SeEn-ThE_lIgHt wrote:Work down through the grades of VERY FINE (1200 and higher )sandpaper, then move onto scotchbrite pads, and autosol with that. Then down to a coarse Rag, then a fine rag.
Should see some nice shine by then.

What he said ^^^ Don't get scared when it looks a bit scratched with the 1200 grade, once you work your way down it will look better and better.

You can polish all day with that metal polish shit and get nowhere.

Oh also, try polishing crossways, in a X shape, then make a new X on top of that but around 20 degrees etc.

I autosol'd a aluminuin diff pan that had been buffed, and it made it less shiney.

A proper buff wheel on a bench polisher would be more ideal. Alot less effort also.

Thanks Guys I'll give it a crack the only thing the would happen is a light weight cam cover

pay someone.polishing is one thing where i reacon getting it done by the pros is the only way to go.Its cheaper then youd think and they do a fricken good job.i'd take it to escort metal polishers,i spent an hour on my supercharger intake and it looked crap and i didnt get much done.they did a perfect job for $35,ud spend that on products

Plus who wants too spend a whole weekend in the garage for the sake of $35!