New Zealand Datsun Club

Hey guys
Just wondering what is my best option for front and rear shocks?
Car has standard struts in at present and I'm building it to be a club car.

I think you are missing one vital piece of information here buddy.
I will let you work out what it is

Naki-Fisher wrote:Hey guys
Just wondering what is my best option for front and rear shocks?
Car has standard struts in at present and I'm building it to be a club car.

torqued wrote:I think you are missing one vital piece of information here buddy.
I will let you work out what it is

Lets cut straight to the point. What car is it that you talking about (model, year, spec etc)

Best option would be to convert to leaf springs front and rear with foam rubber shocks and glass bump stops. Should handle dope.

Naki-Fisher wrote:Hey guys
Just wondering what is my best option for front and rear shocks?
Car has standard struts in at present and I'm building it to be a club car.

I just checked your previous posts to work out which model car you have and it looks like your asking about 1200 Sedan stuff?? (I changed the title to suit aswell)

If it is for a 1200 then id recommend getting some shorter KYB Inserts for the the front and short KYB rears (presuming you are lowering it, you dont want to be buying things twice).

Couple those with either King or Cobra springs in the front and Reset leaves in the back, it'll start to handle alot better.

Also a B210 120Y Swaybar with all the mounting gear also from the Y will help the situation no end - its a great upgrade for these (its slightly thicker).

Thanks Brocky
Yes it's a 1200 Sedan I measured the tubes last night and they cam up at 51mm so it must have some different ones in there.
I want to use the car on track days and club events.
Been the bigger tubes dose this give me better options?

must have 310 struts if 51mm (or other equivalents)

you can get cheap Coil over kits to sleeve over as an option too (for 45 or 51mm struts), like what I have done on my coupe

51mm struts are stronger but heavier. Can get a bigger diameter shock in the bigger tube obviously. Basically best option depends on budget, but spend as much as you can on shocks and tyres, this is where the most bang for buck will come from. In my opinion. Easy to do bigger brake conversions at low cost.

Yea I need to do a bit of a write up on it, I will try and get away from it to do so.
Any recommendation on inserts or numbers for inserts would be appreciated. What have you got in yours Kitch, Love your work mate
As it stands now:
I've made my own coil over set up new hats rada rada ra, will get some photos as it's all set up to throw in and out quickly so it can go back to standard (As i modify and get things as I want them, i will cert the whole thing once finished).
I am currently designing camber plates for the top, I know I can buy but everyone seams to want to fuk you around making specials so as with the rest I will do myself and make a spare set.
I have two sets ea. of 25 and 15mm spacers for under the struts.
I have fitted S13 brakes and have a bigger swaybar for the front.
In the rear it's still standard but putting shortened VS ute shocks in it and have a range of lowing blocks to play with.
I have decided that this will be stage 1 and down the track I will look at fitting the whole S13 front and S13 coil overs in the rear.

Currently I am also sanding back the second coat of primer getting it ready for paint.

Logan

sorry - did not see your reply post.
I am sure you have sorted by now

You can fit S13 stock camber tops rather than specials, just need the slightest of tickles in the OEM hole sizes & PCS's.
nothing a 10mm drill bit wont sort.

My setup is D2 (S13 spec) camber tops, HSD 45mm coil over kit, cut & shut original 45mm housings, Monroe (VW Rabbit spec) shorter inserts. new bearings, nolethanes, 210 sway bar etc, 25mm Alloy Roll centre adjusters, 310 Sunny lower control arms, ute steering arms (to suit bigger 310 ball joints)