My 140J Sedan (10-4-12)

Show everyone your mean datto projects/rides
Flauski
Financial Member
Posts: 738
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:16 pm
Location: Wellington
Location: P. North

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by Flauski »

unlimitedpower wrote: I have a set of R31 Struts already to go but i really want some with a 100mm bolt spacing for the calipers (like everyone else) so i can use Z31 factory front brakes. Anyone wanna swap? :)
There are 2 types of R31 struts you need import turbo model HR31 struts, the RB20DET powered ones. (like the one I picked up to strip, struts not available as Im using em)

Way to tell difference is HR31 import struts have 100mm bolt spacing and disc size is: 274x22mm

australian R31 (which are the ones you have) have bolt spacing 89mm I think and disc size is: 250x22mm
unlimitedpower
Datsun Mad
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:02 pm
Location: Dargaville
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by unlimitedpower »

Yea i i know that they are pretty hard to find though but i'll keep looking.
Funny thing is the struts i have 89mm spacing i removed from a JAP GTX RB20DET sedan.
So i think they must have been swapped at some time.
User avatar
160jsss
Financial Member
Posts: 418
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2008 7:41 pm
Location: Chch
Location: Kirwee

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by 160jsss »

Have you got the stuff you got of trade me the other day
Violet - ??????
unlimitedpower
Datsun Mad
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:02 pm
Location: Dargaville
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by unlimitedpower »

Well i don't have any pictures to add but i will add that the car is now at the car painters.
Ive told the guy theres no rush (allows me to save more money) but the only way the car will leave his shop (giveing him is space back) is when its finished,
Also waiting for it to warm up a little bit more to. First job is to spray the interior floor with stone guard. Then the rest of the car will be sprayed in the green you can see in the other photos.

Ive brought my wheels for this car.
Image
Image
Image
Front= 15X7+15
Rear = 15X8+25

Might not be every ones cup of tea but i like them, I wanted a staggered dish look with a 8" rear rim and this was the only way i could think to do it in a price range i could afford.


Also managed to do this to my arm while doing something stupid (its so stupid i don't even really want to say what it was lets just say it involved a lot of fire) of course its stupid thought all self inflicted accidents are.
Image
Good news is it healed amazingly fast even the docs and nurses were impressed with my speedy healing. Less than 2 weeks and i didn't even have to have dressings on any more. Full movement and no pain at all now so thats good just very thin skin.
I was lucky cos it was a deep enough burn that it killed the nerves (hurt like hell about 10mins afterwards but by next morning was down to approx 10% of the pain).

I'll add more updates when i get the car back from the painters. Then its rust treatment time and start to assemble some bits and pieces. Next step after that will be to start on the L18E may just straight to a CA18DET ECU and T25 turbo instead of running it in stock form, Not completely decided on this yet.
User avatar
Josh
Financial Member
Posts: 1197
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:23 pm
aka: SeEn-ThE_lIgHt
Location: Datsun Capital
Location: Hornby
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by Josh »

Sucks!
Staggered will look lush
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
1969 Mk1 Escort Coupe~ CA18DET full-on project
1972 B110 Deluxe~ Daily
1965 P410~ Wifey daily
unlimitedpower
Datsun Mad
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:02 pm
Location: Dargaville
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan (Updated 10-4-12)

Post by unlimitedpower »

Well its finally time for another update.
Its been a long long time but thats what happens when you tell the painter no rush take your time.

Im pretty crap at taking photos and the paint just doesn't look the same as what it does in the sun, Its kinda a grass green with a small bit of ocean thrown in there and a shit load of gold pearl and effect (thats a painting term or something). So far anyone who has seen it said they like it which is cool.
Every piece of steel in the car that we could get to has been painted in some form or another, Under side all as 3m under-sealer. Inside is all been painted in hard wearing stone guard and the rest is all colour matched primer and top coat.
Car was block backed a total of 3 times before the final prep for the top coats where applied,

The paint is straight off the gun at this stage have been told not to buff it for atleast 6 months the longer the better really. Or not at all if im happy with it, Paint job is mind not a run or a ripple anywhere that ive seen yet, A few little bits of dust that have settled on it after the paint has been applied (i have been assured that with a buff and prob even just a few washes that will all go. And thats by more than one painter and panel beater)
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

The thing is still dripping rust treatment from everywhere. I don't know how long its going to do that for but i did tell the painter to drown the thing in the stuff.

Now for the long slow process of slowly putting the car back together,
I fitted my new guard repeaters just for fun. But other than that first thing is door rubbers and then latches then i'll cover as much as i can with the dynamat.
Image

On the engine front. Things have progressed a little over the last week, Head has been prepped valves and seats recut and lapped in in seals head skimmed etc. Was going to reassemble the rockers etc but then i emailed Kelford Cams and decided id do the cam first so gotta send that away soon.

Next up is the block. I have 2 options here. I have 2 options here. I can use the L14 block i have spare and rebore it to 85.5mm (new L20B pistons) thats 2.5mm over stock don't know if it will handle that or not) then fit the L18 crank and rods. This will give me a bored and stroked L14 to approx 1.8L. This option i think is cooler.

Or use the L18 block and overbore .5mm to fit the new L20B pistons This will lower the compression down a bit. Still not sure if thats a good idea or not only time will tell i guess.

T25g turbo on the side from a S13. If this works out to be to small i'll use the GTiR turbo i have in the cupboard.
Injection is stock manifold with 440cc VR4 injectors powered via CA18DET ECU loom all done and tested on test bench yet to see if it will actually work or not.

Intercooler will be custom made (anyone know any good places) and fitted in a special non conventional location i'll show you later if it works.

Tail lights are NOS gen Nissan items but i prob won't use these, Something else even better in the works.
Thats all for now still have alot of things to buy and finish off radiator carpet etc. But i can now atleast work on the car abit.
Image

The aim for the car is,
100wkw reliable on 12psi or less.
I then want to drive it the approx 5hours north to top of the Island, Turn around and drive it to the bottom of the south island with a good stop off in Christchurch on the way to say hi to as many of you as i can and check out the cars.
Thats all still a very long way off though. But atleast something is still happening even if it is slowly.

I'll take some more photos and post them up later.
datsunboy
Datsun God
Posts: 2016
Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:31 pm
aka: Dan
Location: Christchurch
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by datsunboy »

Awesome update mate!
Paint looks sweet, looks similar to pips in the pics.
I'd go for the l18 block....especially if you plan to run 12psi.....I'd say 2.5mm overbore would be pushing it on an l14. Plus you start getting heat issues the thinner your bores are.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
1969 SSS Nissan Bluebird coupe
1970 Datsun 1600 - CA18DET - Sold!
unlimitedpower
Datsun Mad
Posts: 587
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:02 pm
Location: Dargaville
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by unlimitedpower »

Yea i mostly agree i just thought a 100wkw L14 would be cool. Im not sure how thick the wall thickness is on a L14/L16 (same block as far as i can tell).

Theres so much meat between the cylinders. I was hoping that on those blocks they used the same over all casting as the L18 and L20Bs but uses thicker sleeves to bring the bore size down for the small pistons.
2.5mm is 1.25mm/side.
And people put 87mm SR20 pistons in there L20B blocks in the states (seems quite common). Might just get the L14 block bored and find someone to test it some how. If it works out to thin its not like ive lost thousands of dollars. Bore and hone is going to cost $180.
Oh and MAX of 12psi. If i can't get 100wkw by then i give up and will take what i get. It should be achievable though, If i make it at 8psi then thats prob all it will see.

Its prob easier to tell the actual colour from the engine bay and boot photos we painted that well over a year ago (its really been that long) Although the engine bay and boot in real life look no where near as nice as the paint on the out side of the car it was easier to take a photo of as the flash bounced around in there nicer. Its a bit lighter and a lot more gold than what the photos show, When i saw pips car i thought dam is that going to look the same as mine as my paint was already mixed up and put on in the engine bay boot etc. (to late to change) but i actually think next to each other they would look quite different. Mine is a complete custom colour mixed from scratch not even starting from another colour as a base. So shouldn't look the same. Photos are just the wrong way to show paint colours. Best thing is i think i'll need to drive down and park the two together.
Hows your injection setup going did you get the car to rev still really keen to buy your base map off you. I at least owe you something for it you have been so helpful with setting up my loom etc.

Looking back now my only regret so far is deciding to not go ahead with the IRS swap. I had everything there and it was all feasible It was just a big job.
It'll be a shortened R31 or Falcon diff (if i do a 5 stud swap got the front on the shelf) at some stage but that will prob be after its on the road.

R31 front struts (40mm instant drop) to be installed then prob super lows on top of that and match the back with reset leaves and blocks. Just waiting for the engine to go in so i have the actual amount of weight in there first. Plus a full height car is so much easier to work on.

I really need to find some wing mirrors so if any one has any ideas that would be great. Or anything for sale. Something really nice. I don't care if i have to pay a bit for them. Just want quality.
User avatar
Kitch
Financial Member
Posts: 1689
Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:29 am
Location: Timaru
Location: Timaru
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by Kitch »

Great update - that paint work looks awesome.
I cant wait to be at the same stage.....
looks like a car again, where as a primered / bare metal shell's look like just another project ;)
and as you will know with most "full" project builds on this site, a year is actually not long in "Datsun restore years"...

BTW Where did you get your dynamat? I have been hunting around for the best deal, and although cheaper overseas, cause its weighty shipping makes it non-viable. Also to do my car fully inside (all internals except roof) I reckon I need close to 40' or probably a dozen sheets. which is going to set me back about $550-600 and thats before I get two sheets of 1/2" dynaliner.... whick makes it nearer $1K. I know there are cheaper alternatives, but the dynamat looks the coolest :mrgreen:
datsunboy
Datsun God
Posts: 2016
Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:31 pm
aka: Dan
Location: Christchurch
Contact:

Re: My 140J Sedan

Post by datsunboy »

Haha yeah....drive it down for an akaroa meet!

I haven't had any time to work on my car.....to busy working on other peoples cars and our house etc. Once I get it setup, you can have my tune mate...didn't cost me anything

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
1969 SSS Nissan Bluebird coupe
1970 Datsun 1600 - CA18DET - Sold!
Post Reply